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I just thought of something and I may totally wrong here. I did not hollow out my PCV valve. So, it has no vacuum running to it. Would that make it not open, resulting in the oil coming out the other side? I have a breather on my catch can.
 
369
146
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Waco, TX
Anyone know if there is a way to completely kill the damn traction control. I was thinking that I can pull the ABS fuse. ABS never kicked in on the track anyway. I am very used to brake modulation because motorcycles didn't have ABS and a front lock up usually means face in the ground. LOL I just don't feel like buying and installing the Racing ABS module right now.

I have mine turned off in my tune. I get service advancetrac and abs lights same as the module users. Both myself and another racer do it that way.
 
I have mine turned off in my tune. I get service advancetrac and abs lights same as the module users. Both myself and another racer do it that way.
I talked to Steeda and have an SCT X4 and they said they have tried to tune it out but cannot. It turns back on sometimes. Just like it turns back on when I manually turn it off (5 - 10 second method). It happened twice throughout the day.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Anyone know if there is a way to completely kill the damn traction control. I was thinking that I can pull the ABS fuse. ABS never kicked in on the track anyway. I am very used to brake modulation because motorcycles didn't have ABS and a front lock up usually means face in the ground. LOL I just don't feel like buying and installing the Racing ABS module right now.
My traction control is turned off in the tune because AED.
ABS still works fine though I hate it. Always feels like something is going to break when it kicks in, and I don't mean in a good way either, so I try to brake just short of kicking it in.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
I just thought of something and I may totally wrong here. I did not hollow out my PCV valve. So, it has no vacuum running to it. Would that make it not open, resulting in the oil coming out the other side? I have a breather on my catch can.

Not sure; all the race car applications run two "blank" fittings and a breather can instead of catch can(s).
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,249
4,237
Santiago, Chile
My traction control is turned off in the tune because AED.
ABS still works fine though I hate it. Always feels like something is going to break when it kicks in, and I don't mean in a good way either, so I try to brake just short of kicking it in.

I think I am right to say that from 2011 you cannot shutoff the TC completely in a tune?? At least thats the way I understand it.....
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
no idea....I have the old antiquated mustang with the wooden wheels.
 
I used a 1 1/2 inch hole saw but it needs to be deep (mine was not deep enough). So, what I did was grind off the ends of the tube going through the rubber bushing to get the hole saw to cut deeper. I went through both sides (if you buy a deep hole saw, it will go through). It was still not all the way through, so then I just used a screwdriver to poke holes through it all around the radius until I broke it all out. After that, I used a die grinder with a wire wheel to rip all the rest of the rubber off and clean it down to bar metal. Heat will help you break it out, but I would not burn it for sake of not deforming the metal.

IMG_0265.JPG
 
Correct i was going to heat up the rubber and push it out once it's hot enough to get that middle tube.
I mainly stuck a screw driver in and hit it with a hammer until it broke a hole. I did grind it down to be sharp though (old screwdriver). Moved a 1/2 inch over and did it again until I created holes throughout the radius around the inner pin and then ripped it. A die grinder and wire wheel took it to what it looks like in the picture in a couple of minutes after the pin was out.
 
369
146
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Waco, TX
I mainly stuck a screw driver in and hit it with a hammer until it broke a hole. I did grind it down to be sharp though (old screwdriver). Moved a 1/2 inch over and did it again until I created holes throughout the radius around the inner pin and then ripped it. A die grinder and wire wheel took it to what it looks like in the picture in a couple of minutes after the pin was out.

Awesome thanks for the info.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Flats happen.
I've always used traditional tire plugs without issue.
 
I used a 1 1/2 inch hole saw but it needs to be deep (mine was not deep enough). So, what I did was grind off the ends of the tube going through the rubber bushing to get the hole saw to cut deeper. I went through both sides (if you buy a deep hole saw, it will go through). It was still not all the way through, so then I just used a screwdriver to poke holes through it all around the radius until I broke it all out. After that, I used a die grinder with a wire wheel to rip all the rest of the rubber off and clean it down to bar metal. Heat will help you break it out, but I would not burn it for sake of not deforming the metal.

View attachment 1106

You will love this mod. I assume you're installing a Steeda (or similar) spherical bushing? PITA to DIY the stock bushing removal, but well worth the effort. The only penalty is NVH....a lot of differential noise gets transmitted to the cockpit (especially if you also run a UCA w/spherical front bushing). But who cares because *race car*, right?
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Torque arm where rules allow.
By the time you do the spherical bearing and buy a proper 3rd link you are half way to the torque arm. Factor in the headache of installing the bearing, 3rd link and setting pinion angle and the torque arm is a no brainer. At least in my mind.
 

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