Battery issues round two

[byronj]

Hey guys, it seems like my Motorcraft battery just likes to take a dump right about every two years. Its under the battery warranty but I think I am over MotorCRAP batteries now. How is the Optima or any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Grant 302]

Just my opinion, but if you kill OEM batteries in about 2 years, you will kill an AGM in 3 to 4...and maybe even the same 2, depending on how you use it.

IF you are that hard on batteries, get the cheapest available. And replace when they die.

If you really want to get a 'better' battery or longer service from it, I suggest also getting a modern charger and either periodically top off the charge or float charge when not in use.

My Boss battery is 5 years old and still tests like new. Same for my wife's 2.5 year Explorer. My GT battery is 6 years and just starting to show its age, I'd estimate about 80% capacity. All of my previous OEM Ford batteries got me to 8+ years. The GT battery might only make it to 7 if I don't replace in the spring or sooner if it declines much more over the winter.

My only gripe over replacement Motorcraft batteries is that they don't have the hydrometer 'eye' like the Factory/OEMs do. Otherwise their batteries are perfectly fine. Manufactured by somebody else, to Ford specs.

How often is the car started during the week and how long (time wise) is the car run each trip? And I'm guessing there's been no sort of external charging done over the 2 year life, right?

 

[Polaristxguy]

M2Cents! My motorcraft died after 2 1/2 years. I replaced it with a Red Top Optima and now on my 3rd one. The first two lasted about 12 months each with both of them loosing a cell. In all fairness I'm not sure it's all the batteries fault. I have a .2 volt parasitic draw that I can't track down, unit I do keep the car on a tender.

 

[Grant 302]

M2Cents! My motorcraft died after 2 1/2 years. I replaced it with a Red Top Optima and now on my 3rd one. The first two lasted about 12 months each with both of them loosing a cell. In all fairness I'm not sure it's all the batteries fault. I have a .2 volt parasitic draw that I can't track down, unit I do keep the car on a tender.

That sounds pretty bad. .2V isn't far from 'key-on' loads (without lights, radio, or fans running). Chasing down parasitic loads isn't fun or easy. I use a cheap $30 DC clamp ammeter. Not easy to use but it gets the job done. But with a volt meter you could pull fuses one by one until the voltage drop disappears. It's hard to do with the interior/kick-panel fuse box since it's best done with the doors closed and key off. Should be easy for the under hood fuse box.

 

[byronj]

Grant- I drive my car all the time. The longest it has sat was 3-4 weeks but started every week. This is the second time in two batteries where I went out into the garage and she wouldn't even unlock. I know there has to be a draw but I'm not going to chase it, that should go back to Ford but that's for another day.

 

[CA302LS]

Byron,

I'm 4 years on my factory battery and it still tests new, but I plug in the tender each time I return to the garage.

It's really easy with the pig-tail kit https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

Jim

 

[TMSBOSS]

I have had similar issues with my car. Battery is dead after being left sitting.

Is this a battery issue?

With the battery returning quickly after a recharge, I don't think so.

Putting a more expensive light weight or jel battery will change little if the root cause is not found.

I know what causes my issue. A GPS transmitter and a OBDII transmitter along with standard anti-theft devices and the slight power draw from onboard computers are the likely cause.

I have never had an issue When I remember to plug in the battery tender. Had I once checked the fluid level in the original Boss battery, I may have gotten more than the 5 years I did from the OEM battery.

 

[byronj]

I have had similar issues with my car. Battery is dead after being left sitting.

Is this a battery issue?

With the battery returning quickly after a recharge, I don't think so.

Putting a more expensive light weight or jel battery will change little if the root cause is not found.

I know what causes my issue. A GPS transmitter and a OBDII transmitter along with standard anti-theft devices and the slight power draw from onboard computers are the likely cause.

I have never had an issue When I remember to plug in the battery tender. Had I once checked the fluid level in the original Boss battery, I may have gotten more than the 5 years I did from the OEM battery.

The battery doesn't return after jumping the car. It's dead. I'm sure my ain't theft device and other gadgets help the draw but the car does not sit that long at all.

 

[Grant 302]

The battery doesn't return after jumping the car. It's dead. I'm sure my ain't theft device and other gadgets help the draw but the car does not sit that long at all.

Alarms and other electronics that are active when the car is sitting will kill a battery very quickly. Intermittent sitting for even a couple of days or a week slowly lowers the capacity of the battery. Lead acid batteries like to be stored with a full charge. Unfortunately, even regular driving doesn't really top-off a battery. Incremental time at lower state-of-charge incrementally lowers capacity via sulfation and corrosion. Any time under about 12.4V quickly does permanent damage. And that's what I mean by 'hard on the battery'. Maintenance charging is a hassle and not for most people. If going that route doesn't interest you, I'd still suggest getting cheap batteries and changing them when they die.

When I've left the Boss disconnected from the charger, I don't let it get under 12.6V or so. Most new daily-driven car batteries can exist right around there and have a pretty long life. When actually topped-off, the Boss battery holds in the 12.9X V range after a day 'resting' after a top-off or float charge at 13.8V. Usually takes a week or two to hit 12.80V when sitting and that's perfectly fine. In the 3 to 4 week range I'll check the voltage and likely hook up the charger, even in advance of the next drive.

The GT battery has trouble staying anywhere over 12.77V after a day of rest and needs at least every 3rd day driving now to keep over 12.60V. Longer than that and it need a long drive ~1 hr or to top off the charge. I'm pretty sure that this battery *could* still sit for a week or more, but that it would be close to 12.4V. And that type of sitting would surely kill this battery quickly, as it's already on the decline. But not bad for a 6+ year old battery.

 

[byronj]

Thanks for the info Grant.

 

[Grant 302]

Voltage data from the Boss taken daily. Last drove 11/20.
12.96V 11/21
12.90V
12.87V
Thanksgiving-no reading taken.
12.84V
12.83V
12.82V
12.82V
12.81V
12.81V
12.80V
12.80V - today 12/2

Based on this rate of self-discharge and parasitic load, I should be able to 'safely' let the car sit for another 6 weeks or so before hitting 12.60V or so. I'd hook up the charger before the next drive if it's not this weekend, even though that's not necessary.

One AGM that I think is a good value is the Sears/Die Hard AGM. The 'platinum' (4yr warranty) one is discontinued, but the current 'gold' one has a pro-rata 3 yr? warranty. My friend's WRX that I store/babysit has the old platinum in it. It sits for weeks and responds well to deep cycle discharges and can 'regain' capacity if cycled 'properly'. That one is 3 years old and was 'showing' about 60% capacity, cycled it a few times since and it looks like it's bounced back to near 100%. It is a higher capacity than needed for a WRX at 740CCA. AGMs like slightly higher charge voltage and can take higher amperage. So I don't think they're right for every application.

 

[Fabman]

Byron,

I'm 4 years on my factory battery and it still tests new, but I plug in the tender each time I return to the garage.

It's really easy with the pig-tail kit https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S

Jim

Bought it! I have constantly had dying batteries since the car was new. Battery tender, here we go!

 

[576]

Another simple option is to just disconnect the battery if you know the car will be sitting for an extended time. My past experience with Corvettes proved this was the easiest. Notorious for draining batteries. Also, you need to determine if the parasitic draw is actually excessive for the Boss. A service manual will probably describe the spec. and give a test sequence. Typically, batteries in all of my cars will last about 4 years, usually failing at the first significant temp. change either hot or cold. I have owned my Boss for over 4 years and changed the battery once. Drive it every other week or so. Another thing I have noticed over the years is that once a battery goes "Dead" it is very hard to recover to a suitable state. As always, my 2 cents. Good luck ;D

 

[byronj]

Got the new battery installed under warranty. Now it's time to drive.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Yesterday afternoon while inspecting the engine compartment and fluid levels, I noticed my negative battery terminal was loaded with crud.

I suspect my battery has a hair-line crack near the negative terminal, or has began to vent excessively for some reason.

Scheduled maintenance service next week, and I'll inspect and test then will replace. My Boss production date is the 3rd week of November 2011 and the battery is just over 5 years old. It's due for replacement.

I like Optima batteries and have had good results with them in the past, but I'm leaning towards MotorCraft to keep the Boss OEM, (visually).

Always something to do.
302 Hi Pro

 

[byronj]

I was leaning towards an Optima but since it was under warranty I figured Ford could pay for it. I agree with the OEM look and with an Optima you have to buy terminal extensions. But when I have to pay I'll probably go with an Optima.

 

[superhero]

Yesterday afternoon while inspecting the engine compartment and fluid levels, I noticed my negative battery terminal was loaded with crud.

I suspect my battery has a hair-line crack near the negative terminal, or has began to vent excessively for some reason.

Scheduled maintenance service next week, and I'll inspect and test then will replace. My Boss production date is the 3rd week of November 2011 and the battery is just over 5 years old. It's due for replacement.

I like Optima batteries and have had good results with them in the past, but I'm leaning towards MotorCraft to keep the Boss OEM, (visually).

Always something to do.
302 Hi Pro

I'm in the same boat as you. I think my car was built 4/2011. Will replace with stock battery. Had good luck with it and like you say keeps the OEM look.
Any idea what a stock battery cost?

 

[302BOB]

My original stock battery is still going strong as well...5yrs old as of October with almost 29k on the clock. I start & or drive my Boss every week all year long. My negative terminal also has also developed a corrosion problem but I just hit it with a wire brush to keep things under control ( my service guy recommended pouring some soda on it & rinsing it off with a garden hose but I didn't like the sound of that) My OEM battery in my Crown Vic was still going strong at 7 yrs but I replaced it out of guilt....how long can you push your luck?

 

[302 Hi Pro]

OEM replacement battery is found here: I entered my VIN but the search results didn't seem to be VIN specific as 3 batteries came up, (6 cyl, 8 cyl 5.0, 8 cyl 5.4)

Looks like our battery is $100 MSLP, now I need a Service/Parts discount coupon to pick one up at my local dealer parts department.

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=xGNclO6br3HvKcMeqHeeEQ%3d%3d&id=399010652&m=44&search=true&year=2012&make=Ford&model=Mustang

2HP

 

[Grant 302]

Got the new battery installed under warranty. Now it's time to drive.

Best solution, right under our noses.

Yesterday afternoon while inspecting the engine compartment and fluid levels, I noticed my negative battery terminal was loaded with crud.

I suspect my battery has a hair-line crack near the negative terminal, or has began to vent excessively for some reason.

Scheduled maintenance service next week, and I'll inspect and test then will replace. My Boss production date is the 3rd week of November 2011 and the battery is just over 5 years old. It's due for replacement.

I like Optima batteries and have had good results with them in the past, but I'm leaning towards MotorCraft to keep the Boss OEM, (visually).

Always something to do.
302 Hi Pro

Sometimes the powdery salts come from leaking at the terminal base. Be careful cleaning it!

I'm in the same boat as you. I think my car was built 4/2011. Will replace with stock battery. Had good luck with it and like you say keeps the OEM look.
Any idea what a stock battery cost?

I've heard from friends in the $100 to $120 range installed at Ford. A 'good' dealer can replace the battery with a power source hooked up so you don't lose your presets, KAM, etc.