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S197 BOSS 302 Race Car Build Thread Build Thread

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TymeSlayer

Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
3,787
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3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
Charles:

I used a lightweight (Odyssey PC680) in the stock tray and location. 30lbs weight savings and no heavy, large gauge-wire running through the car. You have to cut the stock plastic tray a little for clearance but overall a very simple replacement.

How does losing 30 pounds on your front right side affect your setup? Does the 30 pounds make any difference to the balance of the front end?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
I don't think that is something that I can feel directly. But it is 30lbs gone off the traditionally heavy front end of the car.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Meh. Not worth the trouble or additional expense, especially when I can just delete 30lbs altogether. It's not going to the rear, but it's not on the front anymore.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Well, due to AZ heat (and my time/budget), I am done racing until NASA West Coast Nationals in October.

Summer off-season to-do list:

OK so I have ordered spare engine wiring harnesses and battery/charging harnesses. Think my battery/charging one got a bit roasted as I've been having a couple odd (but not severe) electrical issues. Saw some damage when we had the transmission out last year and heat-wrapped the wires but it may have been too late.

Going to pull the harnesses and replace them, with good heat-shielding wrap. I have some heat-shield stuff on there now but it's not in ALL of the right places yet. Also my starter motor heat wrap disappeared to "somewhere", so I suppose I'll replace that as well.
Once the original harnesses are out of the car I will cut away the plastic shielding and inspect/repair the original stuff so I have a spare harness. Also missing one starter bolt that will get replaced.

I managed to screw up the riv-nuts on my APR wing, so it looks like I'm going to cut the end off of the wing and install a new "stub" in the airfoil with fresh riv-nuts as well. That shouldn't be too bad but it does seem fairly intimidating right now. I'm planning to insert an aluminum cross-section with reinforced riv-nuts and pie-cut edges and then epoxy that in-place inside the airfoil end; then add epoxy or other filler to make the surface flush. Weeeeeeee...

Endplate removed on driver's side, APR stock rivnuts removed (were pulling out anyways, probably over-torqued them). Note cracks in stub end of airfoil :-/
Um9aJmx.jpg

7uDqc1x.jpg

Making airfoil/fastener location template:
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Finally, the car will be going to the body shop to get the driver's side damage from January 2016 repaired. Once it comes back, it's time to switch up the striping and numbering to white!

Other: Change all fluids. Install new seals in front calipers. Rotate brake pads. Order spare brake pads.

I will be spending some time refreshing my trailer in the "off-season" as well; thinking to do new bearings and brakes on all 4 wheels, and if that goes well I will also try to install a new floor mat to replace the nasty carpet that is installed currently. Should be an interesting project!
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
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W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
In a nutshell, this is what I'm looking to do to the floor:

Article:
https://nasaspeed.news/columns/must...nstall-new-flooring-in-your-enclosed-trailer/
I did mine when I first bought the trailer. (was used and abused)
Paid about 200 bucks for the material from Home Depot.
Some cheap flooring, paint, a few banners and some diamond plate went a long way.
Would have been nice to see this article before I started, but I muddled my way through it anyway.

1385557_10151900149393535_1140195886_n.jpg


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Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
That looks great!
Its way worth doing. HOWEVER....take my hard earned advise on this please.
Use Knee Pads. Just do it. Is it cool and sexy? Nope. Do it anyway.
I didn't and I ruined my knees by the time the job was done and now I am nearly crippled. Seriously, I can hardly walk and not for very far. Since I am so crippled up it's ruined my life in may ways, I got fat, and I can't do certain things you like to do on your knees at night if you catch my drift.
When I was a young pup there was this old crippled up guy that used to come watch me build race cars. Every day at least twice he'd say "Get some damn knee pads or by the time you are my age you'll be crippled up like me"......did I listen? Nope.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
There will be another update in the coming weeks as I prep the car for NASA West Coast Nationals at Thunderhill...stay tuned!
 
@antman450 I decided to just go your route and reverse my mesh--it will indeed be much easier to secure (and much cleaner) from the back side. A couple quick cuts to reverse the bending arc and voila...

ofZFPU6.jpg

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Also there is a little "easter egg" in those pics...
Drew,

I never got around to doing this. Can you please get some close up shots from behind on how you bent and attached. Only if you can get to it from behind to take pictures. Do go taking it out just for me though. Would be much appreciated.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Drew,

I never got around to doing this. Can you please get some close up shots from behind on how you bent and attached. Only if you can get to it from behind to take pictures. Do go taking it out just for me though. Would be much appreciated.
Anthony: The grille is off the car right now so I'll post some photos for you this week sometime!

Current state of car (back from bodywork/paint):
imLELMS.png

DQkTVd0.png

kqrXRe5.png

And my list of tasks to complete over the next 4 weeks...
tkbNdGm.png

Livery update coming (with real Boss stripes, this is just my .ppt approximation):
24SYE2m.png
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
OK made some progress on Sunday...

First order of business was to remove the FRPP radiator. Here is 90% of the crap I knocked out of it after only two weekends! Thread sealer for size reference.
AJDYPQv.jpg

Comparing the FRPP radiator to the C&R Radiator--the C&R has a higher tube density and also a higher fin density. There are roughly 3.25 rows per inch on the FRPP radiator, while the C&R has about 3.75 per inch. Also there is just flat out MORE area on the C&R which further expands the cooling capacity.

Side by side (FRPP left, C&R right--don't mind my flap cutouts for oil cooler lines on the FRPP unit):
FG2Yh8b.jpg

FRPP tube row density:
neU2jiM.jpg

C&R tube row density:
bVy1hFN.jpg

Another big reason for pulling all this stuff was to also remove the stock harmonic damper and replace the crankshaft front oil seal. This seal has been leaking slightly since we installed this engine at the end of 2014, creating a layer of gunk on the front (and sides...and bottom...) of the engine.
pJOmHj8.jpg

All the gunk:
KiZu6nD.jpg

Here is the old oil seal (left) and new seal (right). The old seal got the "lip" ripped off at startup of this engine, I don't think I got the seal pressed far enough into the front cover that time.
pJc3y45.jpg

And since all that was coming off, it only made sense to install an ATI Super Damper at the same time :) Photo taken after two cans of engine degreaser were applied to the front cover...not spotless but a lot better than before!
kiIepvY.jpg

Next up I'll replace the alternator and tensioners, as well as the starter motor (all preventive), then clean up and keep the existing units as spares.

Then comes replacing the OEM radiator support with the BMR unit, installing the C&R radiator, rotating the Setrab 948 90*, and routing new oil cooler lines from the side.

Stay tuned :)
 

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