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S197 BOSS 302 Race Car Build Thread Build Thread

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JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
The Bell helmets (except for the entry level) in SA seem to all be drilled and tapped for Hans now... which is really nice.

What seats are you putting in the car? Tell me how that Sport model works with your seat as I'm getting ready (okay, Fall) to get seats and most likely a Hans device. Looking at the Cobra Suzuka since I had such great luck with them in the M3. Very comfortable even for long (Houston to Denver, Houston to El Paso) drives.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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JScheier said:
The Bell helmets (except for the entry level) in SA seem to all be drilled and tapped for Hans now... which is really nice.

What seats are you putting in the car? Tell me how that Sport model works with your seat as I'm getting ready (okay, Fall) to get seats and most likely a Hans device. Looking at the Cobra Suzuka since I had such great luck with them in the M3. Very comfortable even for long (Houston to Denver, Houston to El Paso) drives.

Going with a Sparco PRO ADV.

ibr29pN.png

I'm getting a seat base and belts installed for a passenger seat, but I won't actually purchase a second seat (won't be a halo seat) until 2014. No need to spend a grand on something I'm only going to use for passenger joyrides a couple times a year. Might get a Corbeau FX1 for the pass side.
 
ArizonaGT said:
Just ordered the 302R valve spring kit, on sale at Rehagen. $61.xx shipped.
How are those different from the ones in our cars?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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NFSBOSS said:
How are those different from the ones in our cars?

They come in a cardboard box instead of a fully-built engine.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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captdistraction said:
I'm confused, have a valve problem? Just want spares? Those should be the same as what's installed in your car

No problem, just spares. Maybe I'll get ambitious one of these days and change out the factory ones as a PM.
 
ArizonaGT said:
Awesome! I was pleasantly surprised to find that my SA2010 helmet was pre-drilled and tapped to accept the HANS bolts.

Most are ready like that. I can't believe you did not have one yet, I thought you had a roll bar. When I first got mine I hated it just like Dale. When I first got it I would wear it in the morning then take it off. Now I would not feel right without it on. It was quite interesting to see in slow motion how my head snapped back when I spun at high speed this year. You can see how it limited the forward and rear movement.

NFSBOSS said:
Nice, I'll be ordering one of those in the next couple of days. I'll be installing my harness bar and harnesses this weekend.

Oh no :( not one of those threads (I would like to see you put a roll bar in there but I am not going to say that).

ArizonaGT said:
No problem, just spares. Maybe I'll get ambitious one of these days and change out the factory ones as a PM.

You are fine as long as you have not over revved ::) FR springs are good until 8K but it don't take much of a bad downshift to exceed 8K. For example in second at 88MPH I am at 7853 and just two MPH more, 90MPH the rev will be 8031 and five MPH more, 93 MPH it is at 8300 :eek:

I can tell you this I will be more aware of downshifts in the future. I still want to talk to someone in the know but I am going with the FR racing springs also. The Roush springs may be better and they do hold up to 8K on the race track but even these have had failures. The FR spring are $100 vs. almost $700 for the Roush springs. Question is are they seven times better? If the Roush spring were $200 I think I would try them but not at $700.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
YellowBoss said:
You are fine as long as you have not over revved ::) FR springs are good until 8K but it don't not take much of a bad downshift to exceed 8K. For example in second at 88MPH I am at 7853 and just two MPH more, 90MPH the rev will be 8031 and five MPH more, 93 MPH it is at 8300 :eek:

I can tell you this I will be more aware of downshifts in the future. I still want to talk to someone in the know but I am going with the FR racing springs also. The Roush springs may be better and they do hold up to 8K on the race track but even these have had failures. The FR spring are $100 vs. almost $700 for the Roush springs. Question is are they seven times better? If the Roush spring were $200 I think I would try them but not at $700.

You know...I *thought* I heard that a few times in your video following the R... Downshifting reeeally early and into the rev limiter. No spring is going to withstand that much over revving. If you have the ability to check the bind tolerances, you can buy multiple sets and select the ones that go into your engine. Cheap-ish insurance if you have the equipment.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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YellowBoss said:
Most are ready like that.

There is a new rating "SAH2010" that come pre-drilled and tapped like this, but mine is "only" and SA2010 so I didn't expect it. I'm fine by that, though! :)
 
The rev limiter only works electrically when accelerating. It is easy to over rev the engine mechanically though. Usually happens when you shifting from 3rd to fourth, and end up putting it in second instead. When braking, I concentrate on my braking until half way through the braking zone, so I'm usually well down in the rpm range before I down shift.

Hopefully that is all that is broken and it wasn't oil starvation that caused the valve spring to break. Good luck.
 
I have had two mis-shifts since I had the car. First time out at Daytona and once first time out with the new Tremec, they may have started the road to failure. Then while at Palm Beach in that vid I was missing the braking points after the both straights. I did have second thoughts about posting that video. It was my fault, in other bad driving but I did have help since the track was wet (not driving the normal line) and I had not been there for a while. I was not doing the same thing all day but while trying to keep up with the race car I threw common sense out the window.

This was a lesson and I have learned from it. What happened should not be viewed as a problem with the Boss engine, in fact just the opposite as it took a lot of abuse over two years and keep going. Now back to Drew's thread ;D

ArizonaGT said:
There is a new rating "SAH2010" that come pre-drilled and tapped like this, but mine is "only" and SA2010 so I didn't expect it. I'm fine by that, though! :)

I have not heard of the SAH 2010, my Hans ready G-Force is SA 2010.
 
YellowBoss said:
Oh no :( not one of those threads (I would like to see you put a roll bar in there but I am not going to say that).
Yep thinking about that one too. No doubt I want one and it's the obvious safe choice but remember I'm not keeping lap times. I'm slow and don't want to know how slow.

My Bell is predrilled and I've just recently started seeing the SAH2010 rating.
 
NFSBOSS said:

This was not at speed :eek: but guess running the fast tracks here maybe I am not one to talk. I should be doing the cage like Drew, looking forward to seeing his pics of that.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnvKjTEPn_w[/youtube]
and there are plenty more on utube, those bars scare me brother, just don't want to see you get hurt. I hope you re-thnk it.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Cookeville TN
Even with my 4 point bar, Neckgen HANS and harnesses, I personally will not be n track in rain like that at all. Losing $250 on a track day is nothing compared to running in a thunderstorm and losing a $70000 investment. No price money at the end of our sessions, and anyway Billy Johnson is CRAZY!!! That's why I love him, Roush is giving him some Nationwide seat time and with a little seasoning he will be awesome in Stockcars. Hopefully Ford is paying attention and won't let him get away like Jeff Gordon.
Steve
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
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New SVT fan installed, took about 5 mins.

wINe6sR.jpg

All HVAC components removed. The heater core supply/return connections at the firewall were the hardest. Coolant drained and ready for refill once I bridge the heater core lines.

DM10S3K.jpg

Everything removed! I'm not sure if I'll have the patience to remove any/all of that sound deadener. If the BOSS has 12 fewer lbs of this stuff, I'd hate to see a GT.

XJlb0oK.jpg
 
6,394
8,275
Everything removed! I'm not sure if I'll have the patience to remove any/all of that sound deadener. If the BOSS has 12 fewer lbs of this stuff, I'd hate to see a GT.

Get one of those little torches at Wal Mart and a metal scraper and an old rag, heat up the insulation, it scrapes right off with the scraper, then while it's still hot wipe the residue off with the old rag. Pro Tip -keep an extinguisher handy but you should never have to heat it up that much, just enough to soften it.
 

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