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SN95 DSG New Edge-blown 4.6 to Coyote! Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

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Down side is the intake tube and filter housing (15-17 GT) he got with the Ford Performance control pack won't work on a sn95. The calibration is for that set up. Shaun at aed did a mail order tune for my sn95 to Roadrunner Boss 302 swap and its been damn good. I put it on a dyno to check the AF's and it was fine. Ive been running straight 100 race fuel seeing its a track only car. If you street yours as well as track it think a 93 or 95 octane tune would be better for you. Your car sounds like a 2v because of the placement of the mufflers and the bends in the mid pipe back . My rear half of the exhaust has so many bends and turns to navigate around the MM PHB/brackets and fuel safe cell, Saleen center exit exhaust its not even efficient im sure. Hence 3 inch mid pipe and dumps is the direction to go for me. Don't think I would do dumps on a street stang. Im 2 old for that shiznit. Good luck! Keep it going. The best part of the build is actually driving the car and enjoying the fruits of your labor and bank account. Sounds like that is just around the corner for you! If you have any questions hit me up.
 
Very successful dyno day today. Tuner said this car was one of the better 'engine-swap' cars he's worked on, was surprised at how smoothly it went. Parameters changed to compensate for intake & exhaust, some changes to VCT, as well as a few other tweaks to help tip-in & tip-out. A few dyno pulls later, and I'm sitting at 414 bhp, 380 lb-ft on a tune that is conservative (not 'MAX POWER'), and has a very linear-feeling power delivery (which the dyno chart supports).

IMG_5837.jpgIMG_5838.jpg

Truck & trailer functioned great, had to home-make some ramps and add some height to the trailer deck so that I didn't knock my exhaust off (exhaust clamps holding the reducers on are currently the low point, that will change shortly). My truck has a fairly soft rear spring rate, but it still pulled fine. No issues with brakes or sway. (First picture is yours truly, checking clearance to rear jounce bumper engagement)

IMG_5835.JPGIMG_5833.jpg

After a day of hard pulls on dyno and a flogging-type evaluation after dyno, there were no fluid leaks, coolant temp is at 190-195 steady, oil temp is fine (engine oil cooler is doing it's job).

IMG_5839.jpg

Oh, I also got my dash completed. Just took an 8x8" sheet of thin aluminum, and used the existing screws from the radio. Tuner was happy that I made the OBD port so accessible!

IMG_5840.jpg


Overall, a great day. Looking forward to finally returning to the racetrack with this car after a bit of time.
 
Good luck! Keep it going. The best part of the build is actually driving the car and enjoying the fruits of your labor and bank account. Sounds like that is just around the corner for you! If you have any questions hit me up.

Wanted to make a new post specifically asking...

Steeda, how did you end up doing your gauge cluster? My dash has functioning gauges for battery, and fuel level. I have aftermarket gauges for water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure. I would love to get the speedometer & tachometer gauges functioning.

I have a plan to get the speedometer to work (need to get a T3650 wire harness.... I accidentally threw mine out with my old engine harness.. D'oh!), I'm just using a driftbox mounted to the windshield right now for speed.

As for the tachometer, that's where I'm a bit more lost. I believe I have the two correct wires coming out of the cluster to tap into the crank position sensor '+' and '-' wires, but not sure if that will work or not. Didn't want to fuss around with gauges too much before dyno, as I have just been mounting my phone on the windshield and using a WIFI OBDII connector to display engine RPM's. I could get a new tach that reads RPM directly from the CAN bus, but would rather not spend that $300..... any advice?


Thanks!
 
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My car had all aftermarket gauges in it when I did my build two years ago so it was pretty much straight forward. It currently has a Aim Pista. There is a wire in your control pack that is just for the tach. So get out your control pack install guide again and find that wire. Do believe it has a label on it for tach. Find your tach wire in your gauges cluster and see that doesn't solve your tach issue. Sorry I can't be a lot of help in this area. I was very lucky I had a friend of mine @captaindistraction help me out on initial wiring of the control pack and with the Aim Pista programming. I will look and see if I have that Tremec 3650 transmission wiring harness in a big bag of 2v shiznit I have from builds years ago. Ill let you know if I find one. If not that mustang salvage place out in GA has one for you im sure.
 
I think the lead for the tach got deleted with the introduction of the gen-2 control pack... I see the mentioned blunt lead for tach in the gen-1 installation guide, but nothing is mentioned in the gen-2 gude... looks like I got the wrong engine!!

Gen-1 control pack blunt lead section:

upload_2019-6-19_10-11-36.png

Gen-2 control pack blunt lead section:

upload_2019-6-19_10-12-2.png

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It looks like I have some extra wires for accessing the CAN bus if needed (blunt leads 12 & 13), so those could be wired into a CAN tach (or an AIM dash if I find a money tree in my backyard).

As for the connectors on the car coming out of the old cluster, I have two connecters, C220a and C220b. C220a has pins 1 & 2 for the CAN bus (they go out to the OBDII port):

upload_2019-6-19_10-1-12.png

It seems that if I route these wires to either a COP or the crank position sensor on the new engine, that could get the tach working. However, I feel as if I am grasping at straws. (not enough data to actually try something that could tear up the harness.)
 

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I would call Ford Performance Tech line and see what they recommend for that tach wire. There should be a tag on your harness that identifies the harness number you have, along with the build date. You might need this when you talk with FP. I didn't realize they changed the Gen 2 harness that deleted that tach wire. That sucks.
I believe the Gen 1 harness I got might have been intended for the Boss 302 R race car. Seeing it came with the round female port with AIM stamped on it. Pure dumb luck on my part getting it. And damn I wish I could have got the ECM mounted to the firewall with the ecm inside the car. Came up with the shorts on the wiring though. :( No money tree here man. I kinda live in the hood! I bought the Aim Pista used on eBay. Totally understand the bank account drain from this swap. :eek: Great numbers on your dyno run. Was that a 93 octane tune? Its amazing the 15-17 gt motors make Boss 302 power with more trq. I still say the (15-17 Gt motors) are the best bang for the buck for coyote swap motors. Its awesome that you get to street and track your car. Believe that brings more value to the build. Drive the heck out of that car and enjoy it. :D
 
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Another 'it's been a while' post:

-Car went to a shakedown event at Waterford Hills. It ran well, beat my personal best there by 0.5 sec.... not sure if it was new pavement, new car, or both.

-From there, attempted to run a local autocross (cheaper seat time), alternator was not charging battery, had to push car onto trailer before attempting a run (good thing, probably would have quit half-way through my first run anyway). Culprit was a loose pin in the connector for the alternator.

-This past weekend, the car saw it's first weekend-long event. National Time Trials event with SCCA, Gingerman Raceway. This is possibly the most enjoyable event I have been to, to-date. I always forget how much fun Gingerman is until I end up back there for an event. Well-run, fast track, plenty of run-off, plenty of paddock space. The car ran awesome (with a stab-bar added.. see first video below......) all weekend long, until the very end of the last run session on Sunday. A bit of oil was noticed around the remote oil filter location, so the car was promptly trailered. Still had good oil pressure, no mechanical breaks. The car is now on the lift at home, waiting diagnosis of the issue. Ran a PB at Gingerman of 1:43.9, good enough for 3rd place in 'M2' class. I did not even expect for the car to be competitive on it's first event of this nature, let alone place podium. Very happy with the car thus far.

Now, house and wedding priorities are looming, I doubt the car will get much 'leg-stretching' for the rest of the season. Eyeing a run at Grattan in late September, that's about it for this season. Will likely drive it to work occasionally, while trying to figure out a gauge solution (still). Still using an old iPhone w/ a Wi-fi OBD connector, and a driftbox as a speedometer. Also need to work on front alignment, and a weird rubbing noise coming from the back in some different cornering conditions.

Here's a picture from the weekend:

GJN03747 (2).JPG

And some video. Please critique my driving (yes, I know I can smooth up my inputs, and yes, I know I could try holding 2nd through some of the tighter turns at Gingerman.)




 
Long time since updating.. not a lot has happened with the car since previous posting, but little tweaks and 'button-up' projects since then.

After the Gingerman Time Trials event, the car went to Grattan in September for a very-rainy day (only drove two sessions before getting so soaked I packed it up early). Good news is this confirmed the 'water tight-ness' of the car :)

A product of COVID is the car now has functioning gauges, refreshed brakes (new DTC70 fronts/DTC60 rears, fresh fluid), and garage has a lot of fancy new lights so I can continue to tinker with the car before first event (Grattan late June).

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Future plans include increasing seat time on current setup, and trying out the recently-acquired Hankook RS-4's (staying within the 200TW tires for now, due to TT class rules).

Registered the car for street use, glad I did - it definitely helps with stress during 'stay-at-home' time!


-Matt
 

Bill Pemberton

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Sounds like a Super Sleeper! What kind of HP are you turning and more importantly how much does the KUKeeper weigh? The car definitely has an interesting history with a Ford Engineer the first owner. Thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks! Definitely working to keep it looking clean, as the previous owner kept it in great condition (still no rust, despite the amount of it's life spent in MI). Power-wise, it's tuned to 414 HP @ 6500 RPM, 380 lb-ft torque @ 4300 RPM. Conservative tune, the engine is still pretty much stock (want to keep everything reliable-ish). Redline is 7600, but I rarely rev it out that high (keep it closer to 7K).

The car has not been weighed (yet), my optimistic estimate is it weighs around 3100# w/o driver, given a starting weight of 3300# and assuming 200# weight savings from engine, k-member, and interior stripping.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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That would be killer weight and definitely beneficial on tires, brakes and other wear. I applaud your idea of shifting a bit lower down ( mine goes to 7800 but I set redline at 7700 ) but I am pretty confident you could at least go to 7200 without any reliability issues. I am sure others will chime in on that, but it appears your mindset is conservative , so that was where I listed my suggestion.

Gotta ask is KU Keeper for Kentucky University, Kansas University , or something else. We do tend to be a nosy bunch, ha!?
 
That would be killer weight and definitely beneficial on tires, brakes and other wear. I applaud your idea of shifting a bit lower down ( mine goes to 7800 but I set redline at 7700 ) but I am pretty confident you could at least go to 7200 without any reliability issues. I am sure others will chime in on that, but it appears your mindset is conservative , so that was where I listed my suggestion.

Gotta ask is KU Keeper for Kentucky University, Kansas University , or something else. We do tend to be a nosy bunch, ha!?

Yep - intent is to keep the car at this same power level, while working to cool water and oil temps as much as possible, and reducing weight.

KU is Kettering University (engineering school in Michigan, formerly GMI). 'Keeper' is hockey goalie - my lifelong hobby before playing with cars, and still skating today when the car allows me the time to do so.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
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Blair, Nebraska
Well now we know, so folks we have another Engineer in the midst , so someone to take heed of his ideas, comments and suggestions........unless it has to do with women, and we all are on equal footing there ( yep, most of us don't really have a clue ).
 
Thanks Taylor! You steered me here in the first place to document the car's rebuild, and I have both received and read a lot of useful info in terms of putting the car back together as well as suspension setup ideas (as well as the constant itch of just buying an S197 already).

I had thought about doing billet OPG's before the engine went into the car, but money and time was tight at the time.. that will be on the list to do this coming winter once the car is in hibernation again. Need to protect this engine, fingers crossed it stays together for many track miles over the coming years.
 
Car is aligned, washed, and covered. Patiently waiting for the first event of the season at Grattan this coming weekend. After that, a weekend-long time trials event at Gingerman in mid-July. Looking forward to finally getting back on-track (literally and figuratively).
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Also-couldn’t help but drive the car out to get a small part for the mower, ended up finding specials on yard stuff. So, the mustang played the role of ‘shop truck’ for that particular afternoon..
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First event at Grattan complete, was a great (hot) day of open lapping.

Previous PB (pre-engine swap) at Grattan was 1:30 even, started the day lapping around 1:31-1:32. Unfortunately, at this pace, the car was grounding out pretty much everywhere (namely before/after the jump, and especially through T11.) The car is way too soft on it's current setup for Grattan. It was okay at Gingerman and Waterford Hills last year, on tracks where there aren't as many dips/jumps, but Grattan showed that the car has not nearly enough control. Ended up backing off to a pace closer to 1:34 so as to preserve the car.

I had passengers pretty much all day anyway and was on old tires, so was not chasing tenth's. A good, fun day of lapping in a car that ran all day and had no catastrophic failures (finally).

Already have another spring setup to try, and will ensure I add a bit of ride height for the next time I go back to Grattan.

No videos just yet (need to edit some stuff). Here's a few good action shots:

DSC_0017.JPGDSC_0035.JPGDSC_0038.JPGDSC_0054.JPGDSC_0066.JPGDSC_0068.JPG

In addition, some entertaining shots of the car through T12:

DSC_0073.JPGDSC_0086.JPGDSC_0087.JPGDSC_0088.JPGDSC_0091.JPGDSC_0092.JPG

Next up, a big Time Trials weekend in July.
 

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