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Ford Racing Suspension Upgrades

VoodooBoss

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patrickshelby said:
NFS BOSS.
What type and sizes are your tires on the Enkei in your signature?
(I guess the Enkei wheels are 18x9.5 & 18x10.5)
You have the wheel sizes correct. I'm currently running Hankook RS3's in 265/35/18 and 285/35/18. Next season I'm going to use either BFG Rival's in 275/35/18 and 295/35/18 or Nitto NT01's in 275/40/18 and 305/35/18. Most likely the NT01's.
 

patrickshelby

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NFSBOSS said:
You have the wheel sizes correct. I'm currently running Hankook RS3's in 265/35/18 and 285/35/18. Next season I'm going to use either BFG Rival's in 275/35/18 and 295/35/18 or Nitto NT01's in 275/40/18 and 305/35/18. Most likely the NT01's.
Thank you.
Where do you buy those Nitto?
(They don't have them at TireRack...)
 

dabossinnne

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patrickshelby said:
Thank you.
Where do you buy those Nitto?
(They don't have them at TireRack...)
Discount Tire Direct sells 'em. As with most things, just do a Google search and you'll come up with multiple on line vendors.
 

patrickshelby

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dabossinne said:
Discount Tire Direct sells 'em. As with most things, just do a Google search and you'll come up with multiple on line vendors.
;D Yes but it gets a bit more complicated when you have to find a vendor who ships overseas.
 

LS Boss

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Quote from: NFSBOSS on October 27, 2013, 05:13:55 PM
You have the wheel sizes correct. I'm currently running Hankook RS3's in 265/35/18 and 285/35/18. Next season I'm going to use either BFG Rival's in 275/35/18 and 295/35/18 or Nitto NT01's in 275/40/18 and 305/35/18. Most likely the NT01's.

Note: have had a bit of exposure to the Enkei 9.5 x 18...generally a very good light wheel and I have lot of tract time on a couple sets, ...... but then the kicker.....I was advised that I could run a little bigger tire...Pirelli 315 x 685 non-DOT slicks on the 9.5 wheel...well..these tires have a lot of grip and at Laguna Seca 7 of the 10 spokes broke completely and I did not hit anything (enkei replaced and took back for analysis)...the wheel held together on those 3 spokes and I limped it back in without a serious mishap other than when I looked at the wheel in the pits...my drawers might come close to being a little dirty. Enkei said the 9.5 was fine for that tire, however I think I will never run that much grip on the 9.5 wheels again. I have been running mostly 275 BFGs and 285 Hoosiers...both seem to be fine...but it you put a lot more surface grip in your tires, I might look for sure at the 10.5 wheel or maybe a different brand like BBS or Jongbleod.
 

VoodooBoss

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LS Boss said:
Quote from: NFSBOSS on October 27, 2013, 05:13:55 PM
You have the wheel sizes correct. I'm currently running Hankook RS3's in 265/35/18 and 285/35/18. Next season I'm going to use either BFG Rival's in 275/35/18 and 295/35/18 or Nitto NT01's in 275/40/18 and 305/35/18. Most likely the NT01's.

Note: have had a bit of exposure to the Enkei 9.5 x 18...generally a very good light wheel and I have lot of tract time on a couple sets, ...... but then the kicker.....I was advised that I could run a little bigger tire...Pirelli 315 x 685 non-DOT slicks on the 9.5 wheel...well..these tires have a lot of grip and at Laguna Seca 7 of the 10 spokes broke completely and I did not hit anything (enkei replaced and took back for analysis)...the wheel held together on those 3 spokes and I limped it back in without a serious mishap other than when I looked at the wheel in the pits...my drawers might come close to being a little dirty. Enkei said the 9.5 was fine for that tire, however I think I will never run that much grip on the 9.5 wheels again. I have been running mostly 275 BFGs and 285 Hoosiers...both seem to be fine...but it you put a lot more surface grip in your tires, I might look for sure at the 10.5 wheel or maybe a different brand like BBS or Jongbleod.
Wow you ran that large of a tire on the 9.5" wheel? That seems way too big. That should be fine on the 10.5 though. I'll keep an eye on the wheels.

BTW I fixed your signature.
 

Bloodykisses

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Thank you! i looked back and found the spring rates for everything from the FRPP to the Steeda's. Thinking about the Steeda Boss and Koni's. Deciding between Koni and Billstein. I like the stuff on the vorshlag site they have. Its just one of those things where there are so many options haha. Id like to knock out the struts, Springs and control arms with locators in one purchase, Its just trying to get the right ones with the proper price.
 

HackBoss2901

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Bloodykisses said:
Thank you! i looked back and found the spring rates for everything from the FRPP to the Steeda's. Thinking about the Steeda Boss and Koni's. Deciding between Koni and Billstein. I like the stuff on the vorshlag site they have. Its just one of those things where there are so many options haha. Id like to knock out the struts, Springs and control arms with locators in one purchase, Its just trying to get the right ones with the proper price.
I currently run the Steeda Boss springs. I like the ride quality on the street and the track handling is great. However the Steeda Boss springs will limit available camber if you decide to install caster/camber plates. They hit the strut tower when camber is set beyond approx. 2 degrees. I agree with NFSBoss; the P-springs are excellent choice for street/track use. If you like the lower look of the T-springs, but want a more track ready spring rate the K-springs are an excellent choice. They are more track oriented than the P-springs. The K-springs degrade ride quality, but it’s still my favorite of all the Ford Racing springs. Only reason I'm running Steeda springs is I traded away my K-springs when I bought the Boss and I'm not willing to spend money on another set.
 

modernbeat

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HackBoss302 said:
...If you like the lower look of the T-springs, but want a more track ready spring rate the K-springs are an excellent choice. They are more track oriented than the P-springs. The K-springs degrade ride quality, but it’s still my favorite of all the Ford Racing springs...
I suspect that the issue with K-spring ride quality is that they were used on a stock length strut. There are some real issues using lowering springs on long struts. It's one of the reasons that we used shortened strut housings when we put together a suspension using common lowering springs. But you are right, that the P-springs have better rates for track use. I wouldn't call them a competition setup, but they are a small step up from stock springs and don't fall on their face on track.
 

HackBoss2901

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modernbeat said:
I suspect that the issue with K-spring ride quality is that they were used on a stock length strut. There are some real issues using lowering springs on long struts. It's one of the reasons that we used shortened strut housings when we put together a suspension using common lowering springs. But you are right, that the P-springs have better rates for track use. I wouldn't call them a competition setup, but they are a small step up from stock springs and don't fall on their face on track.
Jason, I assume the mention of P-springs in sentence 4 is a typo.
 

modernbeat

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HackBoss302 said:
Jason, I assume the mention of P-springs in sentence 4 is a typo.
Nope, I prefer the "P" over the "K" springs for a daily driver that will track use. The K are lower, which helps on the track, but the P have slightly better rates and a more linear rear rate.
 

HackBoss2901

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modernbeat said:
Nope, I prefer the "P" over the "K" springs for a daily driver that will track use. The K are lower, which helps on the track, but the P have slightly better rates and a more linear rear rate.
Interesting, I was under the impression K-springs were more linear and had slightly better rates than the P-springs. If only I had all the cool tools of a race shop...some day maybe!
 

modernbeat

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HackBoss302 said:
Interesting, I was under the impression K-springs were more linear and had slightly better rates than the P-springs. If only I had all the cool tools of a race shop...some day maybe!
Both are actually linear in their useful range. Both rear springs are actually like a dual rate spring, soft up to one point, then stiffer after that. They are not progressive. The K-springs are a little too stiff in the rear relative to the front. This is a VERY minor difference and is made up for, and necessary, with the lower ride height.
 

Domestic Product

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modernbeat said:
I suspect that the issue with K-spring ride quality is that they were used on a stock length strut. There are some real issues using lowering springs on long struts. It's one of the reasons that we used shortened strut housings when we put together a suspension using common lowering springs. But you are right, that the P-springs have better rates for track use. I wouldn't call them a competition setup, but they are a small step up from stock springs and don't fall on their face on track.
Jason, thanks for your input here on BMO. I went with the K springs as my car is not a DD and not a race car. Went with the Vorshlag Bilstein Package you offer with your camber plates and the Ks. I could not be happier. Drives great on the street. The hot mess you describe on the Bilstein page on track is gone.
My question on the struts, your Bilsteins are shortened. Is that a custom set up that you guys do? If one orders the Bilsteins from the Tire rack or some place. Will they be stock length?
 

Daegoba

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With springs, rear lower control arms, relocation brackets, and the adj Panhard bar... is the OEM two piece driveshaft ok? I’m curious about pinion angle.
 

blacksheep-1

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With springs, rear lower control arms, relocation brackets, and the adj Panhard bar... is the OEM two piece driveshaft ok? I’m curious about pinion angle.
it could be checked, but it's prolly close enough, you might want to find a single piece aluminum (not carbon fiber) driveshaft and save about 500 pounds.
and BTW, that 2 piece PITA will double over and smash your hands if you
are not careful removing it.
 

blacksheep-1

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was reviewing this, what ever happened to 2012 Yellow Boss?
I did some setup stuff with him at either West Palm or Homestead back in the day.
 

Daegoba

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it could be checked, but it's prolly close enough, you might want to find a single piece aluminum (not carbon fiber) driveshaft and save about 500 pounds.
and BTW, that 2 piece PITA will double over and smash your hands if you
are not careful removing it.

Oh for sure, I’m just wanting to go ahead with the other upgrades and not wait until the one-piece is in the budget. It’ll get replaced next year, along with other suspension upgrades.
 

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