MT-82 Redline Lockouts

[TMSBOSS]

"I added the Shelby reservoir to separate the two systems and to reduce the volume of fluid I have to change when flushing the brake fluid."

Can you post a "how to this"? Is the shelby reservoir a GT500 part that's available or did you have to piece it together?

Thanks

Here is a link to the site and part.

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/SHEL031.htm

Simple install. I elected to swap the brake reservoir on the boss for a automatic trans version without the tap for clutch fluid. The kit comes with a plug but I swapped just to make sure the plug did not cause problems later. A few other guys here did so before me, works great.

Install is straight forward, remove a fewest/bolts, add a capture nut and install. Less than an hour the first time.

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

I can tell you in my case it was the pressure plate. My issue manifested itself as a pedal that would not come back up from the floor at high rpm, and would take a few minutes to return to normal. Finally at the track for the second time I got a clue that put it all together. Fluid burped out of the reservoir after it got hot after a few passes (1/4 mile). What is happening is either a geometry problem or a design issue causes the pressure plate to push back on the throw-out bearing while the plate is still clamping on the disc at high rpm. This in turn forces the fluid back into the reservoir (there is no check valve and won't work with one), so when you now press on the clutch to shift, the helper spring holds the pedal on the floor as there is no fluid left in the throw-out bearing to counteract it, and you get no or not enough disengagement to shift. You cant shift if you cant disengage, so you break your syncros if you force it. I changed my pressure plate and disc only (not throw-out bearing) to exedy, and now I can speed shift at 8200 like clock work. The difference isn't a little bit, it is a tremendous difference, so much so that it is undoubtedly the pressure plate. Don't waste your time on anything else. Don't put a ford clutch back in the car. Oh, I'm still on the stock shifter too. My car with a tune and full exhaust runs 11.8 at 119 in the heat with a terrible 1.85 60'. I did this at 1000 miles and I'm still on the original trans. No grinding or other issues.
As a caveat, you will see this same pedal response when you have to pump up the throwout bearing after the clutch change, it will stay on the floor until it fills with fluid.

 

[k98dave]

Thanks, I like this and I'm going to order myself one for Christmas

Here is a link to the site and part.

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/SHEL031.htm

Simple install. I elected to swap the brake reservoir on the boss for a automatic trans version without the tap for clutch fluid. The kit comes with a plug but I swapped just to make sure the plug did not cause problems later. A few other guys here did so before me, works great.

Install is straight forward, remove a fewest/bolts, add a capture nut and install. Less than an hour the first time.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Thanks, I like this and I'm going to order myself one for Christmas

Merry Christmas!!!

 

[Cruiserfx]

I too have issues with high RPM lockout, no grinding, shifting into 5th. I also experienced the pedal sticking to the floor issue until I removed the assist spring. I've done a lot of research on this and can't find a reliable fix to the issue. For me, it doesn't start to happen until I'm at least ten minutes into a track session, which would indicate that it's heat related. I'm wondering when everyone experiences the issue, all the time, or after the tranny is heated up? I now have issues with the transmission grinding in reverse when I engage the clutch and not be able to get the tranny into first from a dead stop. When that occurs I have to put the tranny into second to get the car to roll then shift into first. The car is going to the dealership, which the work will hopefully be covered under warranty. I'm going to have the clutch replaced, along with adding a CJ pulse ring, clutch line, and throw out bearing. If that does not fix the issue I will be adding a tranny cooler. I have a MGW shifter installed and depending on the outcome of the two previous mods will install the blowfish bracket.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Cruiserfx

Will you replace the stock clutch with another stock clutch or go to a aftermarket system?

The two common fixes to shifting issues I have seen discussed online are the replacement of the Stock clutch and the solid mounting of the shifter to the trans.

I swapped in a RST clutch from McLeod and added the Blowfish bracket. Both made obvious improvements on their own and together fixed all my shifting and trans issues.

Others have used different single plate clutches with good results.

 

[cloud9]

Not that I want to re-enter this debate since I sold my Boss in October, but I'll at least add my experience. I had one of the first production Boss 302s on the track in March 2011. The first things I did on its maiden voyage were overheat it and separately throw misfire codes and go into limp mode, but those are entirely different threads with their own solutions The initial shifting issues I had were "occasional" high speed lockouts. Like pufferfish, being more deliberate and precise with my shifts virtually eliminated that issue. That said it wasn't long before I had the pedal stayout happen occasionally. Then the pedal stayed out for good......slave cylinder #1 was toast. A few months later as more pedal stayout issues occurred so I added the larger steel braided clutch line. Not long after that boom slave cylinder #2 goes down. A couple months later my first clutch disk grenades by spitting its anti-rattle springs. I replaced with another stock clutch, but a few months after that, boom goes another disk and takes the MT-82 with it. Now at this point I've lost two slaves, two clutches and a trans at about year 3 of ownership. I decide the expense of lost long haul track events far outstrips the cost of an aftermarket clutch, so in goes the Exedy twin disc and out goes the helper spring. After that I had no more lockouts, pedal stayouts or grenaded clutch discs. I did have another MT-82 failure early in year 5, but I attribute that to having installed a used (probably abused) MT-82 when the first one failed because MT-82s were on indefinite backorder at the time. The bottom line is the factory clutch will not hold up to repeated high RPM use......I know because of my personal experience and witnessing several friends blow theirs up repeatedly at the track. The best (and only one that I tried that made a difference) was a racing twin disc clutch. I would have preferred the single disc Exedy if they made one for the MT-82.

302BOB so far so good, but I only have 300 miles on it. I have run it up through the gears to redline (not sustained) many times and the shifting is smooth and precise with the twin disc and TR3160, but until I have the opportunity to test it on the track, I don't have anything to add on how it will perform over a 25 minute session.

 

[WinterSucks]

Removing the helper spring is a must in my book. It definitely has binding issues and I did not like the compound bow feel of it.

 

[BigTaco]

FWIW, exedy does make a hypersingle clutch for MT-82 applications now....

 

[TymeSlayer]

Bought me one of these Shelby ISO clutch reservoirs. Helping prevent brake fade was good enuf for me.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Bought me one of these Shelby ISO clutch reservoirs. Helping prevent brake fade was good enuf for me.

I did this a year ago and installed the Automatic Transmission master cylinder reservoir to eliminate the nipple and rubber cap. I never had brake fade from the combined reservoir, but your brake fluid will stay clean now and maintenance is much easier. Good mod and well worth the $200 USD.

You've got a lot to do this winter, good luck,
302 Hi Pro, BBE

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Removing the helper spring is a must in my book. It definitely has binding issues and I did not like the compound bow feel of it.

Totally agree with you. This came out of my Boss during my first Boss driving season. The Clutch feels so much better and I'm still on the OEM style clutch assembly.

302 Hi Pro

 

[TymeSlayer]

I did this a year ago and installed the Automatic Transmission master cylinder reservoir to eliminate the nipple and rubber cap. I never had brake fade from the combined reservoir, but your brake fluid will stay clean now and maintenance is much easier. Good mod and well worth the $200 USD.

You've got a lot to do this winter, good luck,
302 Hi Pro, BBE

Indeed I do. Also spend a few bucks on some new Sullivan Racing pedals. I'm doing my best to help the automotive performance aftermarket flourish!

Kirk, BBRM

 

[jimco84x]

Late to this party and I'm sure this has been beat to death, but mine was definitely clutch/pressure plate. I was having a hard lock out about 70% of the time when shifting above 7000. I went through MGW Barton and Steeda shifters, the whiteline insert, expensive brackets, clutch return spring removal and fresh fluid. The local Ford dealer went into the transmission 3 times because 5th was grinding terribly. Each time it went back together, I hounded them about the lock out, which was still there. Ford's engineering tech line advised the dealership to replace clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. This solved the problem. I'm not sure how long the stock one will last this time, but the problem is resolved for now.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Late to this party and I'm sure this has been beat to death, but mine was definitely clutch/pressure plate. I was having a hard lock out about 70% of the time when shifting above 7000. I went through MGW Barton and Steeda shifters, the whiteline insert, expensive brackets, clutch return spring removal and fresh fluid. The local Ford dealer went into the transmission 3 times because 5th was grinding terribly. Each time it went back together, I hounded them about the lock out, which was still there. Ford's engineering tech line advised the dealership to replace clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. This solved the problem. I'm not sure how long the stock one will last this time, but the problem is resolved for now.

Welcome to TMO and great looking Boss! We've never had this discussion before. The stock clutch is not up to the task of track use. Your new clutch could last a long time or grenade the next time out. What some of us did was get Ford to pay for the labor and install an aftermarket clutch. For many of us that solved the shifting problems. Looks like your in FL?

 

[jimco84x]

Good eyes Rick! Yes, I'm in Florida. Conveniently located between the sleepy town of Sebring and the world's most famous beach. I've watched this forum for almost 3 years and used it for info and reference prior to getting my Boss 2 years ago. Thanks for keeping it current AND for the change to TMO.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Late to this party and I'm sure this has been beat to death, but mine was definitely clutch/pressure plate. I was having a hard lock out about 70% of the time when shifting above 7000. I went through MGW Barton and Steeda shifters, the whiteline insert, expensive brackets, clutch return spring removal and fresh fluid. The local Ford dealer went into the transmission 3 times because 5th was grinding terribly. Each time it went back together, I hounded them about the lock out, which was still there. Ford's engineering tech line advised the dealership to replace clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. This solved the problem. I'm not sure how long the stock one will last this time, but the problem is resolved for now.

At 4,400 miles, my Ford Dealer Service Department was authorized to replace my clutch, I had lock out in 2, third and 5, but the clutch cause of failure was a Clunk noise when depressed. I have the same aftermarket upgrades, even replaced the plastic clutch line, (because it was plastic!), and my new OEM clutch is running strong 17,000 miles later. Hopefully you'll have the same result.

Upon inspection of the failed clutch components, we found the clutch disc hub springs were falling out and no longer under tension. They just rattled around in the hub.

Good luck with your set up.
302 Hi Pro

 

[Eric]

Looking for the part number for the automatic transmission master cylinder referenced above. Thanks

 

[TMSBOSS]

Looking for the part number for the automatic transmission master cylinder referenced above. Thanks

Master Cylinder or Master Cylinder Reservoir?

 

[k98dave]

Looking for the part number for the automatic transmission master cylinder referenced above. Thanks

You really don't have to change to an auto MC reservoir. The tapered plug, cap, and zip tie will not be an issue as there is no hyd. pressure in the reservoir itself.