My motor blew up......now what?

[Fabman]

Am pretty sure that @Fabman sent me a Ford memo saying DO NOT RUN AN10 ON A COYOTE.. I blame that for at least two dead engines. Let me see if I can find it. The change to AN12 was eye opening!!

yes....-10 is too small. Ford recommends no smaller than -12

 

[Fabman]

If I had the ability to fabricate my own ducting and mounts I would definitely think about that. The cost of the Watson ducting is crazy. I can't do what you did there. If there is a nice and easy bolt-in mount I can use to lower the cooler I would do it. I also have a large gap between the cooler and radiator.

A gap allows the air to get behind the cooler and block flow through it.
I wish I had an easy bolt in answer for you. I'm sure somebody with more street car experience will chime in soon. @Fair

 

[docs302]

A gap allows the air to get behind the cooler and block flow through it.
I wish I had an easy bolt in answer for you. I'm sure somebody with more street car experience will chime in soon. @Fair

The gap being bad was something I had read so there is that. The switch to AN12 lines is not something I heard. I originally read through all of the posts in the sticky that detailed home built oil coolers and it seemed AN10 was where everyone went so that's what I made. No issue with pressure drop I guess?

 

[Fabman]

The gap being bad was something I had read so there is that. The switch to AN12 lines is not something I heard. I originally read through all of the posts in the sticky that detailed home built oil coolers and it seemed AN10 was where everyone went so that's what I made. No issue with pressure drop I guess?

-10 is what a lot of folks use but somewhere I have a bulletin from ford that say not to do it. I shared it with Matt so he's seen it.
Now it might have referenced gen 2 and up blocks, I don't know that for sure but it definitely says not to use -10 and that's what got my attention.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I can tell you, with tears in my eyes, that the pressure drop with an-10 when you have plumbing to a Setrab 948 is pretty big.... In my case it was very expensive. You can see that the Ford racing relocation plates you see for GEN2 motors are all AN-12 now. Strongly recommend you change to AN-12.

 

[docs302]

I can tell you, with tears in my eyes, that the pressure drop with an-10 when you have plumbing to a Setrab 948 is pretty big.... In my case it was very expensive. You can see that the Ford racing relocation plates you see for GEN2 motors are all AN-12 now. Strongly recommend you change to AN-12.

Looks like I'm going to be making some AN-12 lines

 

[67GTA]

I poured about 32oz of a high performance coolant into the catch tank and that filled it.

Just to clarify, when you say it overheated after 2 laps - I’m assuming CHT or high water temps? Or Oil temps, or both?

Did you use an Airlift or vacuum setup when you filled the coolant system? If it took a quart of coolant after the track day, it’s likely there was air trapped in the system and the coyotes will overheat quickly if there’s air in the system.

 

[Fabman]

Just to clarify, when you say it overheated after 2 laps - I’m assuming CHT or high water temps? Or Oil temps, or both?

Did you use an Airlift or vacuum setup when you filled the coolant system? If it took a quart of coolant after the track day, it’s likely there was air trapped in the system and the coyotes will overheat quickly if there’s air in the system.

good point.

 

[JeffV8]

I'm using a Mishimoto sandwich plate and Motorcraft FL-500S filter same as before but without the stock Boss cooler. I run AN10 lines as before.

I'm going to check in with Adam at Rev and see what he has to say.

My Mishimoto sandwich plate and I think all of theirs have M20 fittings and the hole is too small for a -12 line to work correctly. And that was from Setrab tech line call I made with them 2 days ago.

 

[Fabman]

My Mishimoto sandwich plate and I think all of theirs have M20 fittings and the hole is too small for a -12 line to work correctly. And that was from Setrab tech line call I made with them 2 days ago.

I use zero mishimoto stuff.
Fragola fittings and a Ford racing Adapter plate and remote filter.
I don't like any sandwich plates. They all look very restrictive inside.

 

[JeffV8]

I use zero mishimoto stuff.
Fragola fittings and a Ford racing Adapter plate and remote filter.
I don't like any sandwich plates. They all look very restrictive inside.

I have a Setrab plate now.will look into the ford one.

 

[Fabman]

I have a Setrab plate now.will look into the ford one.

 

[JeffV8]

I use zero mishimoto stuff.
Fragola fittings and a Ford racing Adapter plate and remote filter.
I don't like any sandwich plates. They all look very restrictive inside.

What is the part number for the Ford part??

 

[Mad Hatter]

2015-2024 5.0L COYOTE OIL LINE ADAPTOR

2015-2024 5.0L COYOTE OIL LINE ADAPTOR|Ford Performance Parts

performanceparts.ford.com

M-6881-M50A

 

[Mad Hatter]

Checking up on purchases, I had the MMR adapter and it was with AN-10. I replaced it with the Ford Gen2 adapter with the AN-12 fittings and changed the oil lines as well.

 

[2012-Boss]

You need more airflow through your grill to start with. The Boss grill doesn’t flow enough air with fog light covers installed (that’s why they are supposed to be removed for track use). Your other grill is probably a better choice.

Address the grill then the AN line and fitting size. You should also look at venting your hood. Race Louvers has sets for your car.

 

[blacksheep-1]

If I had the ability to fabricate my own ducting and mounts I would definitely think about that. The cost of the Watson ducting is crazy. I can't do what you did there. If there is a nice and easy bolt-in mount I can use to lower the cooler I would do it. I also have a large gap between the cooler and radiator.

It won't be as trick as the Fabman stuff, but you can create the ducting using plastic panels. It's much easier to work with.
I think this is what you are looking for.

https://www.tapplastics.com/custom-cut-to-size-plastic-sheets/polycarbonate-sheets

If not, I'm sure they can send you in the right direction. Make the panels out of cardboard first, then cut them out of the plastic using a saber or jig saw. Bend up some tabs, and get a pop rivetter and your a frabricator..
No one out there that I know of can match Fabman's skills.

 

[docs302]

Just to clarify, when you say it overheated after 2 laps - I’m assuming CHT or high water temps? Or Oil temps, or both?

Did you use an Airlift or vacuum setup when you filled the coolant system? If it took a quart of coolant after the track day, it’s likely there was air trapped in the system and the coyotes will overheat quickly if there’s air in the system.

To be honest, my vision is pretty bad up close so even my new LS gauge cluster is blurry without reading glasses which I can't wear in the car. I have a big warning light for oil pressure but I have to rely on the gauge blinking and changing color and I didn't notice that when I was too busy getting off track and getting back to the pits in traffic. I was wondering myself if it was just air. I did not put the motor back in and install the new radiator. That was done by Revolution Auto and I would think they have done it a million times already. I am waiting for their response.

 

[docs302]

My Mishimoto sandwich plate and I think all of theirs have M20 fittings and the hole is too small for a -12 line to work correctly. And that was from Setrab tech line call I made with them 2 days ago.

Correct......no AN12 option there.

 

[Fabman]

I have a Setrab plate now.will look into the ford one.

Haven’t seen the setrab plate, I didn’t even know they made one?