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Not sure which driveshaft I should get.

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I've been contemplating whether to go with a DSS CF or aluminum. If I go with the alum the I'll need the safety loops, the CF seems to break apart and dissipate the alum. may pass through the floorboard during a catastrophic failure. The added cost of the safety loops don't offset the cost of the CF but there isn't too much of a difference. I'm not willing to poke a couple of extra hole's in my car for safety loops which puts me at a fork in the road. Can I get away with 1? I'm ready to order but I'm sort of stuck on the fence.
You and I think alike and if I ever install an aftermarket driveshaft it will be the DSS CF.
That's not good. Even though I'll never put that much power down, it instills some doubt. I need to do more research. Supposedly they put the bad cv joint thing behind them, now this.
DSS has been dealing with issues related to the bond between the joint and the shaft for a while. I am sure they are on top of it. PST is another brand you might want to look into.
Not quite sure why someone would go with a CF driveshaft for drag racing. The shock load on it with the launches and Drag radials would be unbelievably high. I'm thinking a 4" Aluminum drive shaft would be the better choice.
Good video on comparing steel and carbon fiber driveshafts.

Well maybe not. From a post over on SVT. The owner is replacing it with another CF shaft and DSS is taking care of the owner. The car puts down over 700 RWHP and is used for drag racing.


I saw that too hahaha. It would be really nice if DSS also did what SVT does with their driveshafts or if the CF driveshaft would be the right length to just swap into the MT-82. At least DSS is taking care of the owner, I guess that is pretty much the only good thing about this.
I would have thought the end piece's would have had spline groves or something to grab hold of to avoid this problem. Looks smooth to me, unless it wore it down, but the bonding material is still on there.
racered302 said:
I would have thought the end piece's would have had spline groves or something to grab hold of to avoid this problem. Looks smooth to me, unless it wore it down, but the bonding material is still on there.

I was thinking the same thing too which is why I wish the gt500 piece would work for our cars :-\


Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
You don't have to drill holes for a DS safety loop not sure where you heard this....

I have had the dss alum shaft in my boss for over 13000 miles now with 20+ launches on slicks with zero problems.

The problem with 4" shafts is clearance with shifter and lowered cars. I have t springs and no clearance issues.

Here is the ds loop that I am running on my car
I seen several pictures of safety loops and none looked like the one in that link, good idea. The ones I seen bolted to the body and that's a deal breaker for me. I can deal with a direct mount as long as it reaches far enough down the shaft. Thanks for pushing me back to square one. :) I thought I had just about made up my mind but I'll rethink this again. Here are the loops that I didn't want to install on my car.
Well I fell off the fence and decided to go with the DSS aluminum drive shaft. I ordered it through THMotorsport for $675. The deciding factor was the link Justin posted for the Stiffler safety loop which bolt's to the tranny brace for $115 at Latemodel. So my total cost was only $790 shipped. It's 2lbs heavier then the CF but that would have cost $200 per pound of weight savings. The CF would have been worth it from a safety stand point because there is no way I was drilling any holes in my car, but the Stiffler loop had that covered. Thanks for you input Justin you saved me $400+ that will end up somewhere else on the car.
If anyone else is looking for DS loops you can also use the BMR ones that require no drilling.
So final word on those CF driveshaft? Safe? Reliable?
Concerns with them on a lowered vehicle?
Do all CF BOSS have a CV joint?
How many bad experiences in all?
There is one in this thread + one in Germany (Blue 2012 BOSS)...

Seems aluminium ones are prone to vibrations...
Or only the ones without CV joints?

Seems the aluminium ones at 4" have clearance issues in lowered cars...
But plenty of aluminium ones are 3.5"

Revan Racing and Lethal Performance, both actually using the stuff at way more than 100% (!!!) sell DSS.
That should mean something in my eyes.

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