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Not sure which driveshaft I should get.

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Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I have a DSS Alum in my car for 15+ thousand miles no problems with it at all. no vibrations it hasnt failed nothing. my car is also lowered now.
I have had a dynotech aluminum d/s in my car for 9000 kms, and I haven't had any issues. The whole drive-line is still clunky, but I dont' know if a DSS Al or CF d/s would have made that any better.
I have the. DSS Al and stifflers took out a vibration my car had since new.I would do it again.i also put an MGW at the same time.Very happy with the results.


Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Sean said:
If you are having vibration issues then you need to adjust the pinon angle
vibration issues on a driveshaft with a cv joint? thats there selling point that the pinon angle doenst have to be adjusted for lowered cars. from DSS site ". with the CV in the rear there is no need to change pinion angle on lowered cars. "

how to test for vibration
DRIVESHAFT VIBRATION: 101 (not for CV axles)

Most people have trouble determining if the vibration in their vehicle is coming from the DRIVESHAFT or not. There are typically two types of vibration most vehicles would have. A fast cycle vibration or a slow cycle vibration, to help understand this lets say we put a bucket of water on the passenger’s floor. If the vibration in the vehicle produces small ripples on the top of the water this would be considered a fast cycle vibration. This type of vibration is usually a drive train vibration, things like the driveshaft, motor or torque converter. If the vibration puts waves on the top of the water or splashes, this type of vibration is a slow cycle vibration and usually is an axle or tire vibration. People have trouble determining where the vibration in their vehicle is coming from. Try the test below if your not sure.


A simple way to do this is out the vehicle in question up on jack stands (make sure the vehicle is completely secure), block the front tires and run the vehicle up to the speed you have the vibration. Make sure you use the brake to stop the drive train before you put the car in park if it’s an automatic. If the vibration is a fast cycle vibration you may want to have the DRIVESHAFT checked for balance. This may make no sense to you but you may try indexing the shaft 180 degrees (just pull the shaft off the rear yoke and put it on the opposite way). What this does is change the resonant frequency property of the driveline and in many cases it takes the vibration away. If you have a slow cycle vibration take the tires off the car (make sure you put lugs back on the axle to keep the brake in line) and run the vehicle again. If the vibration is gone you now have to find out if it’s the rim or the tire and good tire shop can help you with that. This is a simple test for any vehicle but please if you’re not completely sure of how to put the car on stands safely bring the car to a certified technician to perform the test. If you want further help with understanding this process or want help understanding vibration problems please call or e-mail us. We live for drive train and will help as much as we can.


Tramps like us, Baby we were born to run...
Exp. Type
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Brighton, Colorado
3-1/2 DSS Alum with the BMR front safety loop. NO NVR. Dropped weight and runs just peachy.
Threw in a Whiteline Insert as well. That added a bit of noise and tightness but all told, I like the set-up.
I did end up getting the aluminum DSS and a Stifflers safety loop. There is a difference in the throttle responds but it didn't eliminate all the clunking, but most of it.

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