Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born

[TMSBOSS]

I am considering pulling the long block from my Boss when the warranty expires. I do not want to sweep parts from the original block as some have done.

If I read the thread correctly. A set of 2015 heads plus the "Filling" is $3855.

A Aluminator short block with the HD rods and pistons, billet pump etc. is around $5500.

So for low $9k you can swap out the long blocks.

What am I missing here. Gaskets and misc I figure a few hundred dollars.

Granted, I will not have the fire breather Sean is building, but then again, more driver mods needed before more horse power.

 

[BigTaco]

For another 3k you can get the aluminator engine ready to rock intake and all. This would include all of the goodies (CJ cams, intake, oil pan, boss heads)

 

[TMSBOSS]

Aluminator XL is $14500.00 also looking at this.

 

[Tucson 302]

A Aluminator short block with the HD rods and pistons, billet pump etc. is around $5500.

You can get it shipped for free from Tousley for less than $4900, that's what I ended up purchasing after my motor popped

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

You can get shipped for free from Tousley for less than $4900, that's what I ended up purchasing after my motor popped

Ditto.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Ditto.

Thanks guys.

Once the warranty is history I will consider a stronger motor, long tubes and a tube.

The Aluminator XL is first choice.....before I seek approval from the "Accounting Department". After??? Who knows.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

The XS is definitely the "easiest" option, as long as you can afford it.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Agree. Boss Motor would then go on a stand.

$4895.00 from Tousley. Thanks for the heads up!! ;D

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Agree. Boss Motor would then go on a stand.

$4895.00 from Tousley. Thanks for the heads up!! ;D

FWIW I can send you an excel sheet with all the parts I put into my fresh short block, came out to $6100 all said and done with a road race oil pan, gaskets for everything, and fluids, but doing all the work myself (no labor charge). I reused my heads (with fresh BOSS valve springs) so you'll have to use the other figures above to calculate that cost out.

PM me your email address and I can send you the sheet.

 

[TMSBOSS]

PM Sent. Thanks!!

 

[ford20]

The XS is definitely the "easiest" option, as long as you can afford it.

It is for sure, and with Ford now switching all production to the 2015 engines, you get the benefit of the 2015 heads. Although, I'm not entirely certain how FRPP is going to make it work out as the Cobra Jet intake doesn't fit under the hood of the 2015, and the 2015 has a new PCM along with updated VCT phasers.

 

[ford20]

I just wanted to show some of the parts that I am getting along with updating my parts list.

I ordered a couple of non Ford parts and have been getting them in slowly and just stockpiling them until recently.

BMR A-Arm support brace - AAS-001

In talking with Kelly about these he had mentioned that for guys who are going to be drag racing their cars, they wouldn't need this as you aren't exactly putting a lot of stress on the A-Arms. For people who are going to be using their cars for road course or autocross or street driving this would make sense as you are tying the two A-arms together making them stronger and stiffer. There would be less deflection on the A-arms for improved handling.

MPR Racing Engines Billet Lower Crankshaft sprocket



This is made out of billet steel and is FAR stronger than the cast piece that Ford offers. On high boost applications, the factory sprocket has been known to break on cars with superchargers or turbochargers and will destroy your engine. Once this breaks, there is nothing holding the timing chains onto the crankshaft and thus your primary chains will have the potential to skip a bunch of teeth along the sprocket and will throw the timing off.

MPR Racing Engines heavy duty secondary timing chains



The problems with going with aftermarket cams and springs is that you may get a larger lift along with increased duration camshaft that the engineers at Ford never designed the secondary chains for. With these aftermarket cams, most will replace the valve springs that have increased spring pressure and seat pressure which will put some added stress on the secondary chains. For the most part, I think you will be ok to run the factory units but with the added RPM's and extended higher RPM's that the engine would see on a road course, I thought this would have been a good idea. I know I would have kicked myself if the cams broke on me. They feature thicker pins holding the chain links together along with thicker plates.

RGR/JPC Stage 2 heads - 1295

RGR lightweight phaser deletes - 01520



These are going to delete the internals of the VCT phasers which is going to end up saving a lot of rotating mass off of your cams and timing system. While not expressly heavy, you can certainly feel the difference when you hold a stock phaser along with one of these phasers in your hand, especially with the exhaust phasers. If you are locking out the phasers, you might as well go the extra step and get these as well. Anything to gain an edge against your competition right?

RGR custom grind camshafts - ????

Well, these I can't really say much about these as the cam grinds don't belong to me. I will say however that in researching cams for the coyote in N/A form, it seems that the lift, isn't the important part. The thing you want to focus on here is the duration, as this is what is going to be making the most power with these motors. If you think about it, you are only at your maximum lift for a fraction of a second but the longer you have your valves open, the more air and fuel you can get into the combustion chamber as well as the exhaust gases out of the chamber.

Just as a point, it is possible to make cams lope in these cars. These aren't RGR cams, but I just want to point that out but it is too badass not to share haha.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q45KS7boguk

JPC Revised OAP - FDVA00002T

With the over axle pipes you are obviously removing the factory resonators but you are also gaining some power. With these you are going to gain somewhere around 7-15HP and when playing the N/A game, every little bit helps.

JPC Underdrive alternator pulley - 02020



This is a lightweight pulley and I can tell you that when they say lightweight, they mean LIGHTWEIGHT!!! This thing feels like a feather to be honest. Anyway, this replaces the pulley on your alternator which will slow down the alternator and increase the longevity of the alternator. JPC says that they see about a 2-4HP increase with these and on a coyote stock car these would be some BIG numbers when you have to run the same equipment as everyone else. As previously stated on a N/A build, just like with the 3V every little bit counts. You are going to need a bigger belt that is 70 7/8" belt which should be NAPA 25-060703 according to JPC. I haven't had a chance to measure this so once I do, I will confirm.

JPC Black Clutch line upgrade - CLK-B

JPC -12AN PCV fittings - 02017

Recently, Darren (the car in the video above) had been posting asking about some blowby issues and one of the suggestions was to go with larger AN lines from the valvetrain to the catch can so you aren't choking the motor and getting rid of the blow by fast enough. with this in mind, I said **** it. I might as well get these and prevent any future issues. If it works cool, if not, no biggie right? Not to mention, this is MUCH cheaper than going with the 3 vane vacuum pump setup that you would need for road race applications.

Amazon.com: Aeroquip FCU1206 #4 Startlite Racing Hose: Automotive

The startlite hoses are 45% lighter than similar stainless steel hoses and IIRC they were something like 30g per foot lighter than the AQP Stainless steel hoses that Aeroquip sells. In the spirit of MattD ... weight savings biznitch

Phenix Industries -12AN Compression Swivel Hose End Straight - J1200-3

Phenix Industries -12AN 90 degree compression swivel hose - J1290-3

Injector Dynamics ID100 Injectors - ID1000



I know that these are way overkill for my setup but if I ever wanted to go bigger and badder with the car I will be setup injector wise, not to mention I have been talking about getting an actual fuel system for the car so this is once less thing I would have to get when I go down that route.

VMP plug and play 40amp voltage booster -VMPAMPPNP

This makes wiring the voltage booster stupid simple! Just plug everything in and you are all set and I am all about convience here! Comes with everything you see here and is stupid simple.

Ford Racing Cobra Jet Setup

Cobra Jet Cold Air Intake - M-9603-M50CJ
Super Cobra Jet Monoblade throttle body - M-9926-SCJ
Cobra Jet Intake Manifold - M-9424-M50CJ

Kooks Green Catted H-Pipe - 11413610

Since I have to comply with emissions for NYS I decided to go with the Kooks green cats H-Pipe system which will tie into the existing Kooks side pipes I have. As is, the Kooks side pipes make the car ****ing loud as shiznit and sound amazing so I am really dying to hear how they sound with the long tubes. The important part here is that these are 49 state legal so I should be all good to go with emissions.

ARP Head studs - 256-4702


ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt Kit - 156-2502

ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit - 156-2801

I think that is everything for now but I am almost positive that I am missing things on this list so once I can find them I will update
this.

 

[ford20]

I just went ahead kept my attenion on the heads. As I said eariler, the heads come bare without followers of lash adjuters. In pricing them out, I found it cheaper to go with the newly released FRPP kits rather than buy them separately. So I went ahead and grabbed the boxes for my parts pile.

I started with the lash adjusters and put a very small amount of Comp assembly lube #103 on the lash adjuster and plopped them in their respective holes.









Next thing was to grab the followers and get those into place. They are pretty easy to install, just roll them on the lash adjusters until you hear them click. Before you put them on, always remember to clean your parts even if they are brand new. As you can see here, these are straight out of the box and they are dirty.



Followers are in now.

Parts List

• Comp Cams Assembly Lube #103 - CCA-103
• Lash adjuster assembly - M-6500-M50
• 5.0L Coyote Roller Finger Follower Kit - M-6465-M50

 

[ford20]

Now that I have the heads on and assembled I turned my attention towards the RGR lockouts. Now, I know there is a huge amount of what the hell are you doing when it comes to going with lockouts versus going with limiters but in talking with JPC, they didn't feel that I would be losing a lot of power with them and I could lock the cams in for higher RPM power on the race track. I have trusted them this far and I think performing as well as they do shows what they they know. Me being a complete noob at this, I have 120% faith in them on the decision. Plus they look pretty cool.

So, I grabbed the phasers out of the FRPP timing kit and went to work on them. First thing I did was mark my right & left timing marks with a magic marker. White out or scribing them probably would have been the easier and better thing to do but as long as you can mark them, thats all that matters. I found it easier to take the snap ring off first and then take the torx bolts off but don't take the last bolt out all of the way, only a couple of threads and then place it on a flat surface.



From there you can now take the last bolt off all of the way from the housing, and take off both plates.





The next thing to do would be to remove the plastic piece along with the spring



From there you want to dispose of the "guts" of the phaser. You might want to grab a towel or a plastic bag and put it over the phaser and seperate the bottom part with the middle section and let the internals come out.



Now you can put the phasers on. For your exhaust phaser, you take the middle section and the bigger delete plate and put those together to make the exhaust phasers. For the intake phasers, you grab the back plate and the small delete plate and put those together.





From here, you can now begin to put the cams in.

Parts List

• RGR Lightweight Phaser Deletes

 

[VoodooBoss]

Nice. I hope you know what you're doing because I haven't a clue when it comes to the modern cam timing stuff.

 

[ford20]

Nice. I hope you know what you're doing because I haven't a clue when it comes to the modern cam timing stuff.

HAHA you and me both Rick!! in all honesty, timing the motor is cake, I had the timing gear on and off in about 30-45 minutes and the engine timed. it is the whole degreeing of the cams that makes me what to shoot myself.

 

[ford20]

The next thing on the list was to put the cams in. First things first, make sure you have new cam filters and make sure that you have new cam bolts as these are TTY bolts and you might not realize that. Now that we have that out of the way, we can go ahead and start with our cams. Make sure that you have them correct. The comp cams are labled RI, RE, LI & LE right on the boxes so it is pretty easy to identify which is which.

I just want to take the time to say that I have heard a couple of times that the aftermarket cams are no gun barrel drilled like the factory or CJ cams are. I'm not sure what that means but it appears that my cams are driled out in the center. I don't know if this is what is meant by that or not, but I figured I would throw that out there.



When you put the cams in you want to make sure that they are in the nutral position with the D hole in the following positions.

Left side



Right side



From there you can put the new cam filters in, but remember to clean out the bores of them so they are nice and clean. This is a picture before I cleaned them. As you can see it is slightly dirty haha.



Cam bolts get torqued down now once you have both cams in the heads. Don't forget to put the Comp Assembly lube on the cam journals and cam caps.



This is the torque sequence for both left and right heads.

Parts list

• JPC Racing Custom grind cams - ????
• Coyote Camshaft Drive kit - M-6004-A504 (Cam Filters)
• N806183-S437 - Cam Cap Bolts ( You need 40 of these)- 10mm

[Torque Specs]

• Step 1 - 53lb-in
• Step 2 - additional 45 degrees

This is where I ****ed up. I snapped 2 bolts because I was looking at the torque specs for the head bolts, not the cam cap bolts so make sure you follow the specs listed and don't do something tupid like I did. I bothered Eric over at JPC about it when I realised my mistake so thank you to him for tolerating my stupidity.

 

[ford20]

I wanted to go ahead and take a break from the top end and get the little things out of the way that the service manual says to do.

So, I went ahead and grabbed my oil filter adapter with new gasket already installed and the three bolts and torqued them down. I went ahead and grabbed my new Boss oil cooler out of the box and went ahead and installed that as well.

Parts List

• Oil Filter adapter bolt x2 - 10mm - W714974 (Sorry, I don't have the last digits on this one right now)
• Oil Filter adapter bolt x1 - 10mm - W503306 (Sorry, I don't have the last digits on this one right now)
• Ford Racing Boss 302 oil cooler - 14mm allen key - M-6642-MB

Torque Specs

• Step 1 - 177lb-in
• Step 2 - Additional 60 degree turn
• Step 3 - Put oil cooler threaded fitting in and tighten to 43 lb-ft

Next thing I did was grab the crankshaft position sensor and put that into place. This appears to be the revised one with the new O-ring installed that was addressed by the TSB.


NOTICE: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor must be positioned into the fitting on the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate and be flush against the boss on the engine block before the bolt is installed. If the CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor is installed incorrectly, the CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor can be damaged.

Parts List

• Crankshaft Position Sensor - 8mm - DY-1293 (Comes with a new bolt)

Torque Specs

• 89 lb-in

I went back to the top of the motor and grabbed the new knock sensors and went ahead and put those in as well. These point towards the rear of the engine.

Parts List

• Knock Sensors - x 2 AL3Z-12A699-BA
• Knock Sensor Bolts - x 2 - W500110-S437

Torque Specs

• 177lb-in

 

[VoodooBoss]

You're making nice progress. Do you have an ETA for finishing?

 

[ford20]

You're making nice progress. Do you have an ETA for finishing?

Well, I have to have the engine in the car and running by the end of the month so I can get the car inspected which is expired BTW this way I can re-register the car sooooooo, hopefully come hell or high water it has to be by the end of the month.