Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born

[8250RPM]

Sean,
May I ask what oil you were running when the bearings went south, and what are you running with the new motor? And have you considered a oil accumulator?

 

[ford20]

Sean,
May I ask what oil you were running when the bearings went south, and what are you running with the new motor? And have you considered a oil accumulator?

I was running Motorcraft 5W-50 originally then I ended up switching over to Quaker State Full Syntethic which met Ford's oil standards. I was thinking of getting an accusump, but I have never really done much more than think about it and running it. I don't know which oil I will be using yet as I will have to figure that out when I go to pick the car up once it is all done and ready.

 

[8250RPM]

I was running Motorcraft 5W-50 originally then I ended up switching over to Quaker State Full Syntethic which met Ford's oil standards. I was thinking of getting an accusump, but I have never really done much more than think about it and running it. I don't know which oil I will be using yet as I will have to figure that out when I go to pick the car up once it is all done and ready.

I myself like amsoil. I'm a mechanic and after years of use in my personal drag race cars I've had excellent results with amsoil. I also use it in my daily drivers and get oil analyst done. That's just my preference though. I also use all their trans, diff and other lubes. I've used oil accumulators before and it's extra insurance incase the engine starves for oil plus it's nice to use as a primer before start up. Cheaper then a blown engine. Just my 2 cents.

 

[BigTaco]

Check out the Driven Racing oil products. They are using mPAO oils in all of their formulations now. This base oil comes from ChevronPhillips. Don't be confused, it's not Chevron (Havoline) or Phillips, it's a co-owned petrochemical business. The mPAO is made by them to marked to blenders in all sorts of industries.

http://www.cpchem.com/bl/pao/en-us/pages/mpao.aspx

I'm not an engineer, but I am kind of a nerd so I watched this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM4owKtJ3wI.

This stuff does everything that PAO does but way better. The viscosity index is way higher (just as a base oil) than PAO making it far more shear stable. Any oil can be blended to have a high viscosity index (like Motorcraft 5W-50) with viscosity improvers, but it will not be stable for long.

 

[8250RPM]

You're not a nerd. You're one of us !

 

[ford20]

What is a mPAO oil?

 

[302 Hi Pro]

What is a mPAO oil?

It is a newer technology additive package for base oils. Mobil Oil may have introduced this new full synthetic oil. But it holds up very well under high sear conditions and high operating temps.

There is much more to it though. Google it for the full story. Interesting reading.

302 Hi Pro

 

[ford20]

It is a newer technology additive package for base oils. Mobil Oil may have introduced this new full synthetic oil. But it holds up very well under high sear conditions and high operating temps.

There is much more to it though. Google it for the full story. Interesting reading.

302 Hi Pro

Oh wow, that does sound pretty cool! Thanks Dave

 

[BigTaco]

Dave,
It's not really an additive, mPAO is the base oil.

Odalay,
BT

 

[ford20]

Well, since the motor, I turned my attention to getting everything else ready for the car going down to JPC. I started with the VMP voltage booster (It is the same thing as a Boost-a-Pump except that Kenne Bell owns that name) and it is so stupid simple that even a caveman could do it. Once again, I had my helper with me once I pulled the trunk mat out of the car.




So I laid out everything for this install. As you can see there is not much to it.




It was so simple, I used the adhesive strips and placed them on the back of the voltage booster and then attached it to the side of the tire well. I then disconnected the FPDM connection and plugged it into harness and then the harness into the voltage booster. I grounded the wire into the ground bolt that is sitting at right behind the factory plastic
trunk piece.





I then moved my way to the fuse box and put the supplied fuse in location F13 in the fuse box

Parts Used

• VMP Plug and Play Voltage Booster - vmppnpamp

Since my battery is so beyond dead at this point I tied some twine to the emergency trunk latch in the trunk this way I could just pull on the twine and it will pop the trunk in case I needed to get into the trunk for whatever reason.

 

[ford20]

I love the styling on the Boss 302 grill along with the Boss 302S grill. The problem with the Boss 302 S grill is that it tapers down towards the backside of the grill so the actual opening isn't that big. in order to combat this I decided I would take a dremel and open up the back side a bit more by removing a lot of the plastic on the upper portion of the grill slats. I also removed the plastic pieces along the grill that are covering the air inlet in hopes to bring more air into the inlet to the factory intake.

I took a drill and drilled out holes as such this way I could get the sanding drum from my dremel in there and sand away at it.



When I first started this I was barely able to get my finger in the openings up to the end of my finger nail. Now I can get all up in this bish! It doesn't seem like much, but hopefully this will allow more air to pass through the radiator into the grill.



You can see that from the first picture it is crappy ABS plastic colored and it just gives the front of the car sort of this unfinished look. SO I grabbed some black vinyl and decided I would wrap the grill. I have wrapped things before without issue but let me tell you, this was a pain in the butt!

This is what it looked like after the first attempt. From far away it looked good but once you got up close it looked like poo to me.



You can kind of see it in the lower left hand corner of the grill it starting to peel up. no matter what I did, I couldn't make the vinyl stick in these corners so I ended up pulling it off and decided I would just paint it black. I masked everything off and let it hit it with some Ford black.



Kind of looks like an RTR car with the bright green fog lights haha. At this point I popped it back into the car.

Parts Used

• Boss 302S grill - M-8200-MBR

To continue on with the cooling theme I also picked up a GT500 cooling fan. There are people who put this on and said that it really hasn't lowered their oil temps much if any but I would imagine that with the more airflow being able to get through to the grill with the added slats it has to do something.

Boss 302/GT cooling fan





GT500 Cooling Fan





You can see the difference not only in the size of the fans but also the shape of the fan blades along with the flaps along the bottom to allow more air through the shroud at high speeds.

Parts Used

• GT500 Cooling Fan - M-8C607-MSVT

 

[ford20]

So a few months back I ended up wrapping the headers in DEI Titanium header wrap and it was a bit of a pain in the butt since I have never done anything like that before and my stainless steel tie wraps wouldn't fit all the way around the collector and I didn't think they came out all that great. There were some spots that weren't wrapped due to the tight gaps between each pipe so I decided to take them off and wrap them and ceramic coat them since I now had plenty of time to do that.



I ended up contacting Jet-Hot and was looking for a ceramic coating that would be able to handle 30 minutes of on track session without skipping a beat. Since the primary tubes are so close to the heads I wanted to try and keep them as cool as possible considering their close proximity to the headers. Their sales rep Dustin contacted me within an hour and sent me some product info about their Extreme 2500 Ceramic Coating finish which is below:

Extreme 2500 ceramic coating is a blend of full ceramic oxides that provide an insulative barrier from the conductive transfer of heat. The coating also provides excellent corrosion protection from both salt spray and chemical attack due to the inert materials that are fused together creating the coating film. The corrosion protections provides the ability for a blanket or wrap to be used in conjunction with this coating without the negative effects of corrosion by entrapped moisture between the wrap and the metal substrate.

This type of coating is typically used in applications where ceramic-metallic hybrid coatings will not operate. Applications with temperatures above 1300F benefit from this coating to reduce the external skin temperature. However even lower temperature applications can benefit from the low thermal conductivity of this coating.

Extreme 2500 coating is applied to mild steel, low carbon steel, stainless steel, nickel alloys, ductile, and gray cast iron.

The application method utilizes flame spray equipment to deliver the product to the external part surfaces requiring coating. Multiple layers can be applied achieving a maximum thickness near 0.013” (0.33mm).

This coating can only be applied to line of sight exterior surfaces due to the equipment size limitations and extreme heat at the gun nozzle. Care must be exercised to ensure that temperatures do not exceed 1000F during application.

Where this coating is a full ceramic, it is susceptible to cracking when applied beyond 0.07” (0.178mm).

Product Data: Materials: Yttrium stabilized zirconium and magnesium Volatile Organic Content: None
Dry Film Thickness range: 6 to 13 mils (0.006-0.013”) or (0.15-.33mm)
Service Temperature: >2500F (1371C) continuous
Corrosion resistance B-117 salt spray: >10,000 hours
Thermal shock 1000F to 70F: No change in coating properties
Thermal Conductivity (ASTM D5470): 0.07 to 0.12 W/m*K

I mean I am no expert about Ceramic coatings so when I went to go ahead and look at what the coating does beyond what Dustin sent over to me I found that this is the level of coating that they would recommend on supercharged and turbo charged applications due to the high amounts of heat that these systems generate. The coating itself can withstand up to 4,200 degree Fahrenheit temperatures and actually insulates the pipes so that there is almost no heat radiation from the headers. If you have ever opened the hood of your 5.0 and felt the blast of hot air smack you, you would know this will be a good thing. I figured that the coating having the ability to withstand these kind of temperatures and keeping things under the hood of the car nice and cool while keeping the exhaust gases nice and toasty I was ok to spend the ~$750 for the coating plus shipping.

When I got them back holy schnikes dude! The box I received them in was bigger and the headers were packed better than they were from Kooks. I haven't taken them out of the bags yet, but the finish is black and has a gritty texture to it. You can get them top coated with another one of their finishes if you would like to. I chose not to since you can see the bones on my piggy bank.

 

[8250RPM]

I had jet hot on my fox body mustangs. You will not be disappointed!

 

[superhero]

Is that correct.... $750 just for the coating??

 

[ford20]

Is that correct.... $750 just for the coating??

750 for the coating and the shipping. This is their top of the line coating though, there are cheaper options available.

 

[TymeSlayer]

Hey Sean,

I'd like to see the finish on these after you get them out of the wrapping. I have a black coolblack II ceramic coating by Calico on my shorties and so far the finish has held up pretty good but I'll have a better idea after this track season. Post a pic of them out when you get a chance.

Thanks,

Kirk

 

[dabossinnne]

Very nice! I've used Jet-Hot on several others cars and plan to again when I put aftermarket headers on my Boss. It is first rate stuff. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

 

[ford20]

Hey Sean,

I'd like to see the finish on these after you get them out of the wrapping. I have a black coolblack II ceramic coating by Calico on my shorties and so far the finish has held up pretty good but I'll have a better idea after this track season. Post a pic of them out when you get a chance.

Thanks,

Kirk

Sorry about the delay!! I took these 4 days ago I think and have been completely forgetting to post them!! I also found my receipt for the headers. The coating was $700.00 while the shipping was $60.XX for those who are interested.





It is hard to make out but in between the last two primaries on the right is my serial number with Jet-Hot if I ever have to do a warranty claim.

Some close ups of the coating to show its rough texture.





Bye bye pretty Kooks label

 

[TymeSlayer]

The Jet-Hot coating looks great. 2500 in black was a great choice. Love the finish and protection your getting.

 

[ford20]

Thanks Kirk! Sometimes I wish I would have gotten something that stands out a bit more but I am very happy over the function over the form of this one.