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SVE Drift 18X10 +43: The perfect track wheel?

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367
1
What kind of tires are people running on 18s which maintain the same diameter as stock?
Just curious, as I do not want my gearing to be any shorter...it was pretty suited to the last track event I was at (a lot of the times in 4th gear, hanging around 6k rpm). Ideally looking for street rubber--not hoosiers :)
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
fmaster360 said:
I like em, but they're twice the price and four pounds heavier than the Vorshlags.

um, no...Vorshalg has the D-Force for $11 cheaper than my Team Dynamics and the F-14's are $20 more expensive. $320 a piece for race wheels is very competitive.

Careful with those lighter wheels. stay on track and don't hit the curbing...they will likely crumple like tin foil. TD wheels are heavier, but they put the meat where its needed to make a strong wheel. My TD wheels are rated for 800kg static load. Vorshlag had to have D-Force increase the metal in their wheels for them to survive. the F14 has the same load rating as the Enkei PF01, which is 690kg. its a decent load rating for racing, but one wrong move and you can kiss a wheel goodbye. On the street, potholes are out to kill your rim. I sought out the TD because they would be a great track and street wheel. and you still drop nearly 13lbs per corner than stock (19x9 w/285-35 street tires vs. 18x10 w/285-30 R6).
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
boro92 said:
What kind of tires are people running on 18s which maintain the same diameter as stock?
Just curious, as I do not want my gearing to be any shorter...it was pretty suited to the last track event I was at (a lot of the times in 4th gear, hanging around 6k rpm). Ideally looking for street rubber--not hoosiers :)

I run 275/40/18s Nitto NT-05s on the street. I believe they are a tad shorter than my stock 255/40/19 Pirellis but hardly noticeable.
 
Puffer, thanks for the explanation. I apologize, I meant to say they were twice as expensive as the LMR/AM wheels. I apologize for not being clear.

Side note, how much life are you getting out of the nt05's?
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
They are my street/rain set and I've had them on the car since January. I think I've put less than 1,000 miles and one cold, damp track day on them so I don't have too much feedback for you as far as how they are wearing.
 
pufferfish said:
...Careful with those lighter wheels. stay on track and don't hit the curbing...they will likely crumple like tin foil. TD wheels are heavier, but they put the meat where its needed to make a strong wheel. My TD wheels are rated for 800kg static load. Vorshlag had to have D-Force increase the metal in their wheels for them to survive...

Careful with your language there. We did not add metal for the wheel to survive, we did the same thing TD did and added meat where necessary to achieve a JWL approval of 1800 lbs per wheel, the exact same rating as the TD wheels have. We have never heard of a single failure from our Mustang D-Force wheel even though it's been on the market much longer than the other 18x10 wheels, and was sold specifically for track use to customers tracking their cars.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I may be mistaken but I believe I was told (possibly by you?) to choose the f14's over the d-force for strength? And the info I found online for the f14 is 690kg, so based on the conversation I had with someone at Vorshlag was that the d-force would not hold up as well as the f14, so one would make the assumption it would carry a lesser JWL, not more.

I wasn't able to get any specific info in my conversation to compare either wheel with the TD for strength or weight. Not trying to be a knob, but there is a lot of misinformation out there. It would be nice to give the consumers accurate info in their quest for a wheel that suits their needs.

TD pro race 1.3 18x10 +45 is 24.1lbs (+35 is 24.5lbs). Static load is 800kg (verified by the stamping on the backside of the spokes). They also have the correct 70.5mm hub bore.
 
Has anyone been running the SVE's or any other LMR wheels daily on the street with pot holes and what not? If so how do they hold up.
 
I ran the SVEs throughout winter with no problems. I can't specifically recall going through a huge pothole, but had no problems with the wheels.
 
367
1
pufferfish said:
I may be mistaken but I believe I was told (possibly by you?) to choose the f14's over the d-force for strength? And the info I found online for the f14 is 690kg, so based on the conversation I had with someone at Vorshlag was that the d-force would not hold up as well as the f14, so one would make the assumption it would carry a lesser JWL, not more.

I wasn't able to get any specific info in my conversation to compare either wheel with the TD for strength or weight. Not trying to be a knob, but there is a lot of misinformation out there. It would be nice to give the consumers accurate info in their quest for a wheel that suits their needs.

TD pro race 1.3 18x10 +45 is 24.1lbs (+35 is 24.5lbs). Static load is 800kg (verified by the stamping on the backside of the spokes). They also have the correct 70.5mm hub bore.

This is great info.
Is a JWL rating = 800kg static load?
And if so, how is static load tested?
This stuff is mega important out on track - I've seen wheels break away from the hubs, or cracks develop over time.
Sadly if we all go hard enough and often enough, wheels become consumables. But even still, knowing more about these ratings are helpful!
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
boro92 said:
This is great info.
Is a JWL rating = 800kg static load?
And if so, how is static load tested?
This stuff is mega important out on track - I've seen wheels break away from the hubs, or cracks develop over time.
Sadly if we all go hard enough and often enough, wheels become consumables. But even still, knowing more about these ratings are helpful!

the JWL is a broad spectrum of testing requirements, which include the static load rating. I don't know much about the testing that is done, but the outcome is generally quantified by the static load rating number embossed in the wheel. the higher the number, the more robust the wheel. I have been trying to find load ratings for factory wheels, as I would consider them the benchmark by which all others should be compared to, but I have yet to find an OE wheel with any load ratings embossed. the internet it littered with even more misinformation about factory wheels than the aftermarket and I don't know anyone at Ford to call upon for reliable info.

So, wheel ratings remain a black art and there are SOOO many imposters with no rating at all. As the consumer, all you have to go by is the static load rating. No wheel is capable of withstanding all street or track abuse, but choosing one wheel over another based on its static load rating decreases your odds of turning such a large financial investment into a consumable.
 
When I ordered the wheels, LMR's website told me to order a set of lug nuts and valve stems. I haven't mounted the wheels to the car yet, but supposedly the factory ones are too big.
 
fmaster360 said:
When I ordered the wheels, LMR's website told me to order a set of lug nuts and valve stems. I haven't mounted the wheels to the car yet, but supposedly the factory ones are too big.

I cant confirm that, but I can confirm that the Ford Racing open lug ones fit just fine.
 
My Nurburgrings only have a rating of 1350lbs=612kg... I guess I will have to be really careful since I 95% street drive. Probably should have just gone with Drifts but I thought I would get something lighter.
 

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