The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Taking a Different Boss to the Track Friday

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

302R uses a unique 1 piece driveshaft that is not interchangeable with any other trans in the FRPP line up. The Boss 302S comes with the same 2 piece driveshaft as a 2012 Shelby.
 
mwilson7 said:
302R uses a unique 1 piece driveshaft that is not interchangeable with any other trans in the FRPP line up. The Boss 302S comes with the same 2 piece driveshaft as a 2012 Shelby.
Thanks Mark. Does that mean there's not much benefit to changing it to a lighter one-piece or did the 302S just get the two piece for cost reasons?
 
cloud9 said:
mwilson7 said:
The Boss 302S comes with the same 2 piece driveshaft as a 2012 Shelby.
Thanks Mark. Does that mean there's not much benefit to changing it to a lighter one-piece or did the 302S just get the two piece for cost reasons?

I did not know that until yesterday while under the 302S at the track. I was shocked to see the two piece and asked about it, Dean said he swaps them out for a one piece because it does add HP and just did not get to that car yet.

I am no expert but it felt to me that I was putting more power to the wheels all day. You spin the tires pulling away without even trying. I had no problems, no vibration and really like the new setup. I will know better when I run PB again, it is the only track I run consistent enough to be able to feel or see a difference. I am going to have to put a safety loop in there soon.
 
cloud9 said:
Which one does Dean use and which one did you install? Why do you feel you need a safety loop? Did you put a blower on that car Scott? ;)

Know what :( he told me and I do not remember, sorry. I know they use the 3.5 shaft and I think there are two or three different ones out there. Email them and ask, in the mean time if I speak with them I will ask again. Mine is 4 inches and made by Axle Exchange, I got it from Kendall.

When I put the one piece on I was thinking about the loop. It just makes sense, I think - and Mark can answer better - that the two piece was also used for safety. When I was under the S yesterday and saw a loop there it was good enough for me to get one.
 
Few things about the changes

The shifter is an improvement but I still can not get a smooth shift into fifth. It started out about 10 percent of the force needed before but that grew to about 40 percent by days end. Not sure if something changed since I normally drive a little harder toward the end of the day after I get use to being on track and settled down. One thing I did notice about the MGW was that if you rev too high it does not want to go into lower gear (3 and 4). My heal-toe needs vast amounts of improvement and I sometimes get on the gas too long and too much. Plus yesterday I was just having a bad heal-toe day.

The drive shaft worked out great like I said. The clutch stayed easy and smooth all day with the new line.

The camber and toe adjustment worked out really good. I normally beat up tires bad and the worst is the middle band it always gets shaved off on the outside. Ran four sessions on a fairly new set and they were beautiful, even all across. Plus I am finally getting the pressures correct and that really helped.
CIMG2664.png
CIMG2665.png
CIMG2666.png
CIMG2667.png

You can see the difference here even if the other set has more time. I did run them for one run yesterday and did not make it worse. I ran pretty hard and did a lot of sliding around turns so I was very happy to see the even wear.

I have no idea why we even balance these, really! I am thinking I might skip that next time, at least for the rears. I just don't see it making a big difference (look where the weight is).

CIMG2670.png

Looks like I have a big problem with the rear, I had a little leak so I got the turkey baster and put that on. When I took the top vent out it released pressurized air. I guess the valve was stuck, after I shook it air would pass through. Because of this I did not use the metal vent on top of the Turkey baster. Anyway this morning I saw this under the rear, not good. I need to get under there and see what is going on. If it is coming from the baster I will just go back to the way it was. I can just imagine how much was hitting the track while I was running.
CIMG2668.png
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
If you have a turkey baster on the left side axle vent port, be careful of using the plastic valve assembly on top of the turkey baster. Cloud9 had an issue where it was getting to close or or hitting the pipes and the valve melted. That's where I have mine becuase I swapped out rear diff covers for the one from FRPP.
 
I put the baster up top not on the left side tube. This was a big leak, so something is going very wrong. Got to get under there to check it out (too cold yesterday :eek:) but good to know about the pressure.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Scott,
What camber plates are you running, and what do you have them set at?
I've got MM at -2.4 and scuffed off the outer shoulders pretty good on 3 track days. May not have enough tire pressure.
When I get dedicated track tires, hopefully I can get it dialed in better like you are.
 
drano38 said:
Scott,
What camber plates are you running, and what do you have them set at?
I've got MM at -2.4 and scuffed off the outer shoulders pretty good on 3 track days. May not have enough tire pressure.
When I get dedicated track tires, hopefully I can get it dialed in better like you are.

MM's I started out at -1.8 and worked good in the beginning while as I was first learning. As I started to run a little harder heating the tires, the excessive wear returned. I keep dropping the pressure and it helped some in the middle but then started to roll the outside while still eating up the middle. I had the toe at zero and a friend suggested to go with a -.4 total toe and -2.2 camber because of the outside wear. Looks like it helped but found out one side toe setting had moved off to the positive so that was not good. Now with the lower pressure the middle does not get worn and the camber/toe setting stopped the tire from rolling over.

I really had to learn to deal with the lower tire pressure, not higher. I start out now at 22 PSI cold and run between 28-30 hot. Before I was running way too high, in the mid 30's or more. Good thing I had some help with this and got it figured out (for now). It is not my strong point :(
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Yes, that actually seems really low. For a tire like an NT01, it's recommended to be in the 39-41psi hot range, less than that if you feel the tire getting slippery towards the second half of your session. Tires like the RA1 seemed to like a 35-36psi hot range.
 
I've been trying to run my NT01s at about 38, 40 or higher is like ice skates. I was told yesterday by the current Texas AI and CMC champs (twin brothers) that those pressures are way too high. They said I should run them like an RA1, 28-29 hot. So who is right?
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top