Thank you sir, I shall give this a try today. I do have a little mityvac pump somewhere here.Clutch bleed required vacuum. Makes no sense, I know. Put a plug/cap on the master and pull a vacuum. A mityvac pump is what I use. The air should pull into the reservoir. Factory says pump pedal 50+ times, repeat until bled. Works some time, some times no.
A rubber stopper with a hole from a home improvement center should work. Measure before you go. Drill a hole through the stopper, plug in the hole from the pump, stick stopper in top of reservoir. Hold a vacuum for a minute of so and pump pedal.
Yep, I know cortex has some ss clutch lines on sale and if all fails I shall snag one of those puppies. I need to get one since the oem plastic one sprays black particles all over my brand new brake fluid.Great advice from TMS and I would also check on the one item you mentioned that had you questioning the issue, and that was the SS brake lines you made yourself. The custom made ones are not too expensive but they are form fitted to avoid bends or kinks in the lines, plus they have extremely tight fittings. Any of those things on your homemade ones could be a culprit too, but a solid flush is likely your biggest concern.
Thank you sir. I did not know these existed. This is a very excellent suggestion! I will buy a set of these and give them a try. I hope they get here before my next event this upcoming weekend. I am very new to AN fittings and assumed that the clutch fitting would have the same angle of seal.You probably know this, but AN fittings are 37 degrees and most other flare fittings are 45 degrees. You might try sealing your leaking connection with an AN conical seal.Earl's Conical Seals Are Ideal for Making Permanent Field Repairs to Damaged Hose Ends and Adapters. Slip these 37 Degree Aluminum Seals Between the Hose End and Adapter and Tighten - For a Quick & Easy Repair.www.holley.com
Understood sir. I need to mess with the car more. I plan to replace my cervini with an oem hood and install hood vents. I have been reading that they provide some amount of front downforce. And yes, I basically started to sacrifice mid corner speed for exit speed in that sweeper.Mid-corner stuff is difficult to correct since it is/should be after the car has already taken a set, the suspension has already done it's job. If that's the case, then you need adjustments in speed (going too fast), F/R Aero, or front camber. The good news is you should be able to correct a steady-state understeer by easing off the throttle or lifting to get the car pointed more in the correct direction.
Always great to see more people flogging the 3.7 ponies out on track!Well, those 4 pots were AMAZING this past weekend. 0, zero, nada, nill, nein brake issues, brake fade or nothing. I actually locked the front tires during my first session and about 5 times in a hard off-camber corner, which the stock calipers never could manage. I used the hawk DTC-60 brake pads and can say that they do indeed destroy rotors; but I already had them and could not return them since I bought them on ebay. I shall go to Pagid next, gotta look at that price to performance ratio and not just the upfront cost.
Now my biggest enemy is understeer. It is not a lot but I do develop pushing after 3 hard laps in fast long (~15 seconds) sweepers (~80mph) mid corner. I plan to mess around with my coilover settings, tire pressure, tire temps, alignment (I finally succumbed to purchasing a pyrometer and white paint) and rear ride height. So I shall devote much of my next event to setup and record-keeping. I was able to drop my lap times by almost 6 seconds at MSRH since the last time I went CCW, which is absolutely bonkers! I got to the limit so much closer that advance trac reactivated itself, which is a first for me. Black Panda was probably saying: This nut is getting too nutty.I plan to disable it completely next time I go to track. Traction control and stability control are very annoying in the mustang. They are extremely limiting.
Furthermore peeps, I am gonna kill my Nankang NS-2R during my next event. They have served my well but the cheepo Federal 595-RS-Pro had a stiffer sidewall. So in my small experience Nankang pros: Wear life is better (7 track days/28 heat cycles so far), soft sidewall feels forgiving; I need about -3 degree of camber or more and about 36-38 psi hot to avoid riding sidewall. Federal Pros: Cheap (In March of 2021(~$170 for a 275/35R18), now they are just as expensive as all the others), Stiffer sidewall. Federal cons: Wear life is worse (5 track days/20 heat cycles before cording), price to wear ratio is worse than the Naknang, even though they used to be ~35% cheaper.
Up next in line of destruction are the allegedly awesome Falken RT660 puppies. I shall give an update as to how they do in a few months.
Below is a sweet pic right before The Launch!
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