S197 3V Fabman's build; How did we get here? Build Thread

[Coz]

Whats this hose?

Heater hose

 

[Fabman]

Heater hose

On a race car? Zip tied to the fuel rail? Say it ain't so....

 

[TMSBOSS]

On a race car? Zip tied to the fuel rail? Say it ain't so....

LOL

 

[Coz]

On a race car? Zip tied to the fuel rail? Say it ain't so....

Lol. But it looks like the zip ties are for the hose insulation and not to the fuel rail. I'm guessing a heater on a race car allows for:

1. More coolant capacity
2. Emergency supplemental cooling

 

[Fabman]

Lol. But it looks like the zip ties are for the hose insulation and not to the fuel rail. I'm guessing a heater on a race car allows for:

1. More coolant capacity
2. Emergency supplemental cooling

Probably for the defroster. I know around here that's an issue.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

That's the factory heater hose. It's bridged to the other side behind the intake manifold. The core has been deleted and the hoses don't go through the firewall anymore. Normally it's covered by the noise covers. Not worth the time, effort, or expense to come up with something prettier.
And they are zip-tied to the plastic supports that attach to the manifold, just like the factory does

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Mine overflows the catch can in 4 laps.
I lost a gallon in a 6 lap qualifier and 30 min race.
But...the motor runs great so....maybe I'll make this bypass hose and try it in a practice session and leave my 5 qt overflow tank in place just in case.

Thanks for all the numbers on thread/hose size.
Saves me from having to figure it out.
I love TMO!

This is the fitting I used to adapt the -6AN to the valve cover plug port: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all48214

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Sal question for you on triple pass radiators. I see conflicting information on whether or not a triple pass is a good idea with a stock water pump. I asked Kenny Brown and while they didn't share any data they say it seems to work fine, and I've seen other resources including fluidyne saying you need a serious water pump and high working pressure to effectively use a triple pass in most cases. Seems to me they would have a lot more pressure drop across the core with the long fluid path. Is this the case? Do you think using one on an otherwise stock coyote cooling system would be a good or bad idea? Thanks in advance!

 

[Fabman]

Sal question for you on triple pass radiators. I see conflicting information on whether or not a triple pass is a good idea with a stock water pump. I asked Kenny Brown and while they didn't share any data they say it seems to work fine, and I've seen other resources including fluidyne saying you need a serious water pump and high working pressure to effectively use a triple pass in most cases. Seems to me they would have a lot more pressure drop across the core with the long fluid path. Is this the case? Do you think using one on an otherwise stock coyote cooling system would be a good or bad idea? Thanks in advance!

What I can tell you is I have used this same configuration for literally decades on fords, chevys, toyotas, mazdas, datsuns etc. long before electric water pumps were available and they all worked just fine. I also take the thermostat out so that does increase the flow somewhat, though I don't know that its necessary. On the big V8 motors we always put a 5/8" restrictor to keep some head pressure on the pump so that it was less likely to cavitate. We also slowed the pump down quite a bit with pulleys. Standard fare for stockcars for eons and eons. These days I use an electric pump and don't worry about pump speeds or head pressure or flow rates or thermostats....its just a simple solution that works. I see no reason why a stock coyote would be any different.

 

[Fabman]

That's the factory heater hose. It's bridged to the other side behind the intake manifold. The core has been deleted and the hoses don't go through the firewall anymore. Normally it's covered by the noise covers. Not worth the time, effort, or expense to come up with something prettier.
And they are zip-tied to the plastic supports that attach to the manifold, just like the factory does

This is the solution that I used for the heater hose deal. Apparently there needs to be a restrictor in the heater hose system to function properly and I didn't have any of the stock parts, so this hose kit addresses that plus its super clean.

Coyote Swap Cooling System Hot Water Bypass Kit - Power By The Hour

Not running a heater on your 5.0L Coyote engine? if so, the factory hot water tubes pose a bit of an issue. With this kit you can now replace both hot water tubes allowing proper crossover while eliminating the big oem connections. This kit comes with both billet pieces that bolt into the...

pbhperformance.com

 

[Fabman]

Well well well…..front brakes are screaming hot and rears are basically cold.
Houston, we have a problem.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

What I can tell you is I have used this same configuration for literally decades on fords, chevys, toyotas, mazdas, datsuns etc. long before electric water pumps were available and they all worked just fine. I also take the thermostat out so that does increase the flow somewhat, though I don't know that its necessary. On the big V8 motors we always put a 5/8" restrictor to keep some head pressure on the pump so that it was less likely to cavitate. We also slowed the pump down quite a bit with pulleys. Standard fare for stockcars for eons and eons. These days I use an electric pump and don't worry about pump speeds or head pressure or flow rates or thermostats....its just a simple solution that works. I see no reason why a stock coyote would be any different.

Thanks Sal!

Brakes: proportioning issue?

 

[Fabman]

Thanks Sal!

Brakes: proportioning issue?

The ABS is on the fritz.....haven't figured out just WTF the problem is yet.
I ordered all new wheel speed sensors today and I'm going to make sure all the reluctors and wire connections are squeaky clean this weekend so hopefully that helps. It keeps locking up the front brakes and I'm also killing front rotors so its been absolutely no fun to drive at the limit when the limit is so much lower than it should be and its absolutely killing my lap times.

 

[Albino500]

Well well well…..front brakes are screaming hot and rears are basically cold.
Houston, we have a problem.
View attachment 66562
View attachment 66563

So basically getting front temps around 1400 - 1600 and rear temps around 800 - 900. What are the operating ranges on the pads that you're using?

 

[Fabman]

So basically getting front temps around 1400 - 1600 and rear temps around 800 - 900. What are the operating ranges on the pads that you're using?

Its not the pads that are dying, its the rotors. I never get brake fade...thank God.

 

[Fabman]

These are the fronts:

RST 2 - PAGID Racing

RST 2 is a semi-metallic resin bonded material containing steel fibers. Cold friction and initial bite makes this material most appropriate for Rally and NASCAR applications.

www.pagidracing.com

And these are the rears:

RSL 29 - PAGID Racing

RSL 29 features very good modulation and release characteristics. It is a low metallic resin bonded material containing steel and aramid fibers. The friction level of the material maintains constant at a low-medium level. Another advantage is the easy bedding in behavior.

www.pagidracing.com

 

[Albino500]

Just asking - Got to understand all factors. Like front upgrade to 4 piston 14" diameter rotors and upgrade to 14" rear rotors - seems more of a change in the rear upgrade than on the front if you're looking at rotor diameter increase from stock as far as leverage factors go. Front brakes usually do more of the braking effort than rears if I remember...

 

[Fabman]

Just asking - Got to understand all factors. Like front upgrade to 4 piston 14" diameter rotors and upgrade to 14" rear rotors - seems more of a change in the rear upgrade than on the front if you're looking at rotor diameter increase from stock as far as leverage factors go. Front brakes usually do more of the braking effort than rears if I remember...

yes but this is way too much.

 

[PatrickStapler]

Are the pad materials possibly causing the temp differentials? What does Pagid say?

 

[Fabman]

Are the pad materials possibly causing the temp differentials? What does Pagid say?

Those are a matched set….recommended by Kohr racing.