Im just going to buy a dry sump and let Kevin @honeybadger build a car around it for me. LOL
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The Camaros were running dry sumps way back in the Grand Am days because those LS motors couldn't live without one. They had a carve out in the rules to allow it, while the Boss 302s used a wet sump very successfully.
When we went PWC racing, dry sumps were allowed, and used by everyone with a blue oval.
The wet sumps ran an accumulator that stored oil pressure, we cut a cooler line in the bus stop at Daytona, and all the blinks things didn't go off until in the banking, the driver clicked the engine, coasted into the pits, with no loss of oil pressure, according to the ECM.
An HPDE or competition car in a lower class, I would have no issue with a decent wet sump, but ultimately, especially with low or no oil pressure engines, the dry sump is the way to go.
Another benefit of the dry sump you can get rid of your oil cooler! 32qts flowing all around the car you wont need it. One question i always had tho.. Do you just pull the factory oil pump gears out and replace with a fitting? or is the 'sump' part what those pumps are for nothing to do with the actual oil pumping in the engine? EDIT: Read on John George Race Blog "Removal of stock oil pump was needed as the dry sump pump is now the engine oil pump. To take out the stock pump removal of timing chain was necessary. " So we are going to see more wheel HP i assume.The Camaros were running dry sumps way back in the Grand Am days because those LS motors couldn't live without one. They had a carve out in the rules to allow it, while the Boss 302s used a wet sump very successfully.
When we went PWC racing, dry sumps were allowed, and used by everyone with a blue oval.
The wet sumps ran an accumulator that stored oil pressure, we cut a cooler line in the bus stop at Daytona, and all the blinks things didn't go off until in the banking, the driver clicked the engine, coasted into the pits, with no loss of oil pressure, according to the ECM.
An HPDE or competition car in a lower class, I would have no issue with a decent wet sump, but ultimately, especially with low or no oil pressure engines, the dry sump is the way to go.
You definitely need to run an oil cooler. It's true that having the 3 gallon tank will help with heat management, but you still need an external cooler. Bill Dailey's kit comes with instructions on how to plumb everything.Another benefit of the dry sump you can get rid of your oil cooler! 32qts flowing all around the car you wont need it. One question i always had tho.. Do you just pull the factory oil pump gears out and replace with a fitting? or is the 'sump' part what those pumps are for nothing to do with the actual oil pumping in the engine? EDIT: Read on John George Race Blog "Removal of stock oil pump was needed as the dry sump pump is now the engine oil pump. To take out the stock pump removal of timing chain was necessary. " So we are going to see more wheel HP i assume.
Also, i'm hoping to get drag master Holbrook to do my engine since they are local to me and know a thing or two about coyotes.. since they are pure drag guys i'll need your feedback from a road course racer perspective! when i was chatting with some old clay track guys down in Georgia about 30yrs ago doing stuff for them like tightening the fan blade bolts.. they were all $$$ late models running dry sumps and they specifically preached to me that with 32qts and all the plumbing around the car a cooler was not needed.. things change! these coyotes heat that oil! Can't wait to see the guide honeybadger.You definitely need to run an oil cooler. It's true that having the 3 gallon tank will help with heat management, but you still need an external cooler. Bill Dailey's kit comes with instructions on how to plumb everything.
I am working on a video/writeup for drysump oiling - but the short version is you re-use the oil pump housing, but remove the gears. The oil pump housing is needed to hold the timing tensioners on the right side.
Horsepower comes from pulling vacuum on the crankcase - i'm hoping for 10whp. We'll see.
I have a Dailey on an LS3, it bolts directly to the block, the pump bolts to the pan so no suction hoses. There is no need for a windage tray because the suction slots and screens are placed to do that for you. Also the pan hugs the caps to divide the engine into 4 bays to control the oil even better. My pump will generate enough vacuum to suck air and dirt past a stock main seal into the engine so use their recommendation for main and balancer seals if you're going to try and pull maximum vacuum. I also run a cooler with the system, it's a Keyser radiator with the built in oil cooler, helps get all those gallons of oil up to temp in a reasonable time.Quick question for those that have a Dailey drysump. It looks like it bolt to directly to the block and seal with an oring vs the windage tray/gasket like the stock oil pan.
How does it deal with crankshaft windage and oil drainback issue from the passenger head?
Is the vaccum created by the pump enough to counteract those issue?
Thanks
Ahh yes.. heating the oil up quickly and easily. i see. very wise you are.I have a Dailey on an LS3, it bolts directly to the block, the pump bolts to the pan so no suction hoses. There is no need for a windage tray because the suction slots and screens are placed to do that for you. Also the pan hugs the caps to divide the engine into 4 bays to control the oil even better. My pump will generate enough vacuum to suck air and dirt past a stock main seal into the engine so use their recommendation for main and balancer seals if you're going to try and pull maximum vacuum. I also run a cooler with the system, it's a Keyser radiator with the built in oil cooler, helps get all those gallons of oil up to temp in a reasonable time.
Double Pass Radiators With Oil Cooler - Keyser Manufacturing
keysermanufacturing.com
Don