Ford Racing Suspension Upgrades

[VoodooBoss]

I had a shop install mine. While not official I've heard some shops use an impact gun but you need to be very careful. If you go too tight you could snap off the top of the strut.

yep
Just use the adjustable setting on the impact gun to set it to the approx ft lb
To do this you need to work on a sample with a tourque wrench then adj the gun to suit.
Make sure to work it out with a test sample first.
That is how i did mine.

Using a test sample is excellent advice.

 

[BOSS5OH]

alright awesome thanks for the info! unfortunately my impact gun does not have torque adjustability lol. It is pretty much just one speed and to further torque something you just continue to hit it with gun.

I'll see if I can use a friends or something.

But just to clarify. Once its torqued properly it should NOT spin correct? you should be able to get a torque reading on the nut without the assembly rotating? I am also running J&M camber plates with the 05-10 rubber spring isolators. Don't know if that would change anything.

Thanks again

 

[VoodooBoss]

I have MM camber plates and mine spin. Yep it's a problem and I've painted mine to see if they come loose. It would have been nice if FR had used nylocs. You can also use a jam nut to make sure it doesn't come loose. Make sure it's tight as mine was loose from the original installation and I know of another member who had the same issue.

 

[Sesshomurai]

alright awesome thanks for the info! unfortunately my impact gun does not have torque adjustability lol. It is pretty much just one speed and to further torque something you just continue to hit it with gun.

Yeah, definitely don't use that.

 

[cloud9]

To do it technically correct, you remove the cap where you insert the adjustment tool. You put a wrench on the flat sides at the top of the strut. Then use a crow's foot attached to a torque wrench. Either way if you do this or use the impact, make sure to put some loctite on before tightening the nut. Then consider a jam nut and paint mark the nut to see if it moves.

 

[VoodooBoss]

That reminds me that you should use the small spacer under the top nut so you can get a crow's foot on the nut otherwise it's too far recessed to access.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

TBH just put it on the spring compressor and hit it with an impact, make sure you don't cross thread the nut putting it on. Not ideal or per spec but works just fine.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Vorshlag got themselves a spring tester rig, here is the P-Spring data:

 

[Grant 302]

Lotsa people looking for that info on P springs...Thanks!

It really does look pretty close to the K rates, but a bit softer.

 

[Russellsam]

Vorshlag got themselves a spring tester rig, here is the P-Spring data:

Awesome info
thanks

 

[Champale]

Thank you for posting that P spring chart! It confirms my thoughts about them being softer than my old Ultralites (which are incorrectly advertised at 195lb but are more like ~230lb according to Sam Strano if I recall correctly).

I poked around the Vorschlag site but couldn't find that chart or where it came from - would you happen to have the link because I would like to read more.

Thank you!

John

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Thank you for posting that P spring chart! It confirms my thoughts about them being softer than my old Ultralites (which are incorrectly advertised at 195lb but are more like ~230lb according to Sam Strano if I recall correctly).

I poked around the Vorschlag site but couldn't find that chart or where it came from - would you happen to have the link because I would like to read more.

Thank you!

John

John--I pulled it from their facebook page. They may be posting on the forums about it, but they typically answer questions on their facebook as well. That is one of a bunch of spring sets they tested for various cars.

 

[VoodooBoss]

How do the P spring rates compare to the stock Boss and LS spring rates?

 

[Champale]

Ah thank you for the update, ArizonaGT!

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

How do the P spring rates compare to the stock Boss and LS spring rates?

not sure off the top of my head but those are listed at brembo50.com

 

[Howster01]

Hi to everyone,

I have a 2012 Boss and began the suspension with the Ford Racing lowering springs. Not too drastic, but looks better than stock. Last night I installed the BMR rear lower control arms with the new relocation brackets. I have the adjustable upper control arm and will install it at a later date. Panhard bar and brace to be installed next week. I have noticed the rear left side sticks out a bit more than the passenger side, so the Panhard bar should take care of this issue.

I already have the SCT tune with JLT CAI and I am amazed at the balls this thing has now. Plus there is no wheel hop at all after installing the rear LCAs. However that isn't even the best. After I installed the tune, I noticed a lot of firecracker backfiring when decelerating with clutch out. I really hated it so much because it just sounds so 70's. However I just installed the RTR axle back exhaust and I have to say this thing not only sounds so much better, but the firecrackers are totally gone. Plus I can't imagine how much weight is shed with the new mufflers. Magnaflow did an awesome job on this system. It has a deeper sound yet isn't obtrusive and the sixth gear drone is all but gone. Just enjoy the car so much better now, and I loved it before.

Now just deciding on Long tubes and X-pipe as I am looking to run the Texas Mile in October. Doing some exterior mods as far as graphics because I just don't like a lot of bling, and the Boss sure has that going on. Anyway photos will follow when complete. Just wanted to let folks know the exhaust is well worth the price, but don't pay the $625 plus you see on-line. I bought mine for $520.00 including shipping, so it was well worth the cost. Black tips are wicked good too.

First thing I installed were the RTR wheels and they are sweet. Just looks more aggressive, but the new exterior will really shine when I have it finished in a few weeks. Barton shifter makes a world of difference and is an easy install too. Off to do some tweeks so have fun...

Enjoy your rides and have some fun.

Howie

 

[302Boss Hog]

Sounds like you’re headed in the right direction with bolt on mods. I have been looking into a lot of these same mods and been talking to people from coast to coast to get a consensus of which manufacture to use.
Kooks and American Racing Headers LT are the two most commonly used. I will be going with ARH. Sounds like the craftsmanship, fit and HP gains are better. I like the RTR exhaust you choose, the black looks great. I thought of going with the Corsa, but may change my mind and go with the RTR. I haven’t decided on the CAI. Either carbon fiber Air Raid or JLT painted SBY. Definitely a custom tuned SCT. You may consider a JLT oil separator. An easy install and helps keep your octane up that you’re paying a premium price for and keeps the extra oil out of your intake. No need for both sides, just passenger side. It looks like i made to go ahead and invest in a new shifter too.

 

[Fat Boss]

I'm following in the footsteps of giants! Tomorrow morning I'm putting on my P's, CC's, LCA R/B's, Jounces, and adj Panhard. Pretty excited! Need some goodies prior to the Shelby Bash in Vegas next month...

 

[VoodooBoss]

I'm following in the footsteps of giants! Tomorrow morning I'm putting on my P's, CC's, LCA R/B's, Jounces, and adj Panhard. Pretty excited! Need some goodies prior to the Shelby Bash in Vegas next month...

LOL You're as tall as I am. Good luck with the install tomorrow.

 

[four-walling]

Reply #125 in this thread has me wondering-

Will the M-5300-P springs and M-18183-C strut mounts not work with the factory struts?