Removing the Stock Oil Cooler, what is needed?

[ArizonaBOSS]

Nice...

 

[HackBoss2901]

Ok, so I finally have my oil cooler installed. Some pics with some notes. First, the Mishimoto thermostatic plate is nice, but not that nice. The oil gasket just fits the oil gasket surface on the block. They should have made it a little bit bigger in diameter. Second, they drilled and tapped the 1/8 pipe holes to close to the inlet and outlet. When I install my sender in their hole, it blocked most of the outlet opening. I had to redrill the plate with a hole a little closer to the middle of the plate so my temp sending unit did not block of the outlet. I want my temps taken where the oil is flowing out of the block to the cooler. See pic below of new sender location.

Thanks for posting, nice setup!

 

[GTMikey]

I know when Cool Tech was building their Oil Cooler, Ford engineers contacted them due to almost 2x the flow rate. Were intrigued, mine works great.

http://www.cooltechllc.com/Boss/Boss_Oil_Cooler.shtml

 

[Grant 302]

Nice install Mike. Do you still think the Mishimoto O-ring would be too small to fit on the stock Boss cooler?

Rick noticed this kit for sale at AM for $580:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-oil-cooler-1114gt-black.html
They list the hose lengths as 3'-8" and 4'-7.5"

 

[06mach1]

Nice install Mike. Do you still think the Mishimoto O-ring would be too small to fit on the stock Boss cooler?

Rick noticed this kit for sale at AM for $580:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-oil-cooler-1114gt-black.html
They list the hose lengths as 3'-8" and 4'-7.5"

The Mishimoto o-ring is about .150 wide. Looking at the picture below of the stock Boss oil cooler, you can see the imprint of o-ring (I used black grease on it). It appears that about .070 to .075 of the o-ring will actually be doing the sealing. Not sure if I like that? It would seal, but not by much! Also, don't forget, if you plan on installing a temp sender and that temp sender has any length, it will block the ports. You will have to drill another port for the sender like I did.

My suggestion for anyone installing an extra air/oil cooler while still keeping the factory water/oil cooler would be to use the CX racing oil cooler plate (as seen below), but modifying that one also. The factory water/oil cooler acts as a thermostat in this case. The CX Racing plate comes with 10AN fittings, but those fittings are aluminum and the inside of the fittings are necked down to 8AN diameter, restricting the flow of oil. What I did is replace the fittings with steel versions which have the 10AN inside diameter. I also beveled the edges of the cooler openings and drilled out the inlet/outlet ID's to match the 10AN diameter fittings. No more restrictions and better flow, plus the port for a temp sender are in the correct location. Had I not changed paths and went the route of removing the factory water/oil cooler, I would have went this route myself.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Nice install Mike. Do you still think the Mishimoto O-ring would be too small to fit on the stock Boss cooler?

Rick noticed this kit for sale at AM for $580:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-oil-cooler-1114gt-black.html
They list the hose lengths as 3'-8" and 4'-7.5"

That looks like a decent kit for the price. That O-Ring business above is not comforting, however.

 

[Grant 302]

Thanks for the pictures and description Mike! I think the Mishimoto plate would work, but that's close enough to keep me from trying it on the Boss cooler. Looks too easy to tear if it got hung up on the outlet port. I'm probably going to go with the Moroso adapter because it's one of the few that use an AN 10 O-ring instead.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699/overview/

 

[302 Hi Pro]

A nice surprise when I returned home this week, my oil cooler bracket arrived! The bracket exceeded my expectations and it even comes with instructions and a mounting orientation sticker affixed to the part.

Excellent job Mike! Thank you so much.

Name Correction, sorry Mike.

 

[Grant 302]

My install retains the Boss cooler, but all the parts apply to a stock cooler delete.

Parts list:
Mike's bracket
https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=7448
925 Setrab
http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-25-row-series-oil-cooler-p-193.html
RaceFlux Lightweight Racing Hose, -10AN (Stainless inner braid with nylon outer)
Bought 10 feet used less than 9. Their full stainless is a bit cheaper $6.45 vs $8.10/ft.
http://www.improvedracing.com/an-hose/raceflux-lightweight-racing-hose-10an-p-213.html
Moroso Remote Filter Adapters 23699:
Got this because it's one of the few with an -10 AN O-ring boss and I'm not adding sensors to the sandwich plate or using a T-stat. This makes it more 'plug n play' than NPT which I'd use sealant for (PITA).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699
Fireflex 7/8" (-10AN) Fire-Retardant Hose Sleeving:
Got two feet of this and probably would have been happier with 3 or 4 feet. It's silicone over braided fiberglass.
http://www.improvedracing.com/heat-shielding/fireflex-78-10an-fire-retardant-hose-sleeving-p-62.html
Fittings:
Two each of everything in AN -10. Went with these since they are all swivel fittings which do not bind as much as non-swivel units.
http://www.improvedracing.com/an-fittings/an-swivel-hose-end-fittings-c-3_12_36.html
90 degree:
http://www.improvedracing.com/an-swivel-hose-end-fittings/raceflux-an-90-degree-double-swivel-seal-hose-end-fitting-p-146.html
Straight:
http://www.improvedracing.com/an-swivel-hose-end-fittings/raceflux-an-straight-swivel-seal-hose-end-fitting-p-144.html
-10AN to -10AN ORB (O-ring Boss):
To fit the Moroso sandwich plate.
http://www.improvedracing.com/an-adapter-union-fittings/raceflux-an-orb-adapter-fitting-p-151.html
M22 to -10 AN (setrab adapters:
http://www.improvedracing.com/an-adapter-union-fittings/adapter-fitting-for-setrab-oil-coolers-p-184.html

Total cost is about $575. $450 for everything above from Improved Racing, $50+ shipping for Mike's bracket (I bought two plus foglight inserts so shipping was split) and $69 for the sandwich plate. Could be $16.50 cheaper if I went with the full stainless line or $23 cheaper if I also ordered 9 feet instead. A chunk can also be saved with a different sandwich plate. So under $500 is possible with the 925 if you shop around more for the rest of the parts. You could also just get the Mishimoto pre-assembled lines from Summit. A 48" and 60" would have worked for me with a bit of slack.

The install with Mike's bracket made it all easy. All the hardware and rubber cushions needed were included. The Cooler was hanging in 35 minutes including the bumper removal. Mount cooler to bracket and use blue loctite. Remove two harness pins and one holding the hood release cable and drill a 1/4" hole started from the lower side finished/cleaned from above.




over 1/2" clear to the condenser. If I pushed on the cooler tanks, it would not contact.


That was the easy part. Then I wasted a half hour straightening and combing condenser fins while I was there. I tried first to run the lines on the driver side and could not find an alignment to my liking. I think mostly because of the location on top of the stock Boss cooler. So I ended up running both lines to the passenger side of the radiator. I might have been able to do it with other fittings, but they would probably need to have been the combined AN to NPT fittings which would not be compatible to my ORB/Moroso setup.



Stainless inner hose is easy to cut using a dremel cutoff bit (thanks to Justin for a tip about that in another thread) I wouldn't bother trying any other way:

I only have one -10 AN wrench so I did mar the fittings here and there:


Before I buttoned everything up, I topped off the oil and fired up the engine to check for leaks. I figured I lost about a quart from the old filter and the cooler + lines take another quart so I put two in. I had a small leak coming from cooler return line...and quickly shut off. In my haste, I only finger
tightened that last fitting so it was just a half turn with the AN wrench and everything was good to go after that. Didn't take any pics with everything buttoned up and zip tied with the side shroud in the proper place...I was eager to take a test drive.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Grant nice work. Thanks for posting all of the photos.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Ultra clean install!

 

[Smilieboy]

Mind=blown.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Grant: thank you for the nice write up and photos. Looking at your sandwich plate install, I see why most everyone runs the line to the right side.

Very nice job,
2HP

 

[Smilieboy]

Gary, All
Here is re post of what I did to eliminate the Boss water to oil cooler.
https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2494.msg107954#msg107954

Rick has most of the parts listed, I used Setrab's 34 row cooler to maximize capacity and Improved Racings 180 thermostat block. You also need the "short" oil filter adapter spud from Ford P/N AL3Z6890A about $4.50 from Tousely Ford. I used an Ebay sourced adapter plate and it is nicely machined and blue anodized. Pay attention to how the hoses are routed at the engine, I used Aeroquip Braided lines for durability and a straight, and a 135 degree fitting at the adapter. Its real tight in there but I have everything fit with no hits. Where I mounted the T-stat is just about perfect and only requires a small window trimmed in the undertray.
I have run my car the last 2 days to test and the thermostat opens at 180 and closes again around 170, oil warms up much quicker and stays around 160 during cruise. i pushed on the highway, running 60 mph in 3rd gear at 5500 rpm just to get it up to 180. Happy so far, will have track results in a couple weeks.
Steve

Can you post a picture of the trimming you had to do to make your set up like you did?

 

[steveespo]

Pics of routing and trimming



Just had to cut the raised portion of the undertray. Nothing is below the main surface of the tray.
Steve

 

[Grant 302]

Thanks for the compliments! I also have to credit those who have done the previous testing, installs, and brackets then shared about it on BMO. Consolidation into a thread like this has been priceless for getting me motivated to get it done as soon as I got the bracket from Mike. Least I could do is share what I've learned here. 8)

 

[Smilieboy]

That's perfect steve, thanks a bunch.

 

[Grant 302]

But with the temp readings now being reported during cool weather, one does have to wonder about oil temps during hot track days with ambient temps in the 90's.

Also has any one taken temp readings across the oil cooler with a laser pyrometer to measure the oil cooler effenciey?

I've been wondering about that once we roll into summer. I used to stay away from the track when it gets hot. I'm hoping to change that this year. After crunching some numbers, I think deleting the stock Boss cooler may need *at least* the equivalent of the 948 to perform as well as the stock cooler plus a 915...maybe more in 90+ degree heat.

I've been having some trouble estimating the BTU range for the stock cooler but I think I have a reasonable model. Please comment if you see any errors or bad assumptions.

Not sure why I didn't think of this earlier, but I got a rough measurement of delta T across the lines to/from the Boss cooler. Idling after a 30+ minute drive with freeway about 10* F between the two about 80* out. Cold side of the main radiator return hose about 140*, cooler return about 150*, post cooler about 145*. This tells me a LOT about the system. At low flow, the coolant diverted to the Boss cooler is near half. While idling, coolant flow should be around 10 gpm. Solving for a minimum estimated BTU:

5 gpm x 8.3 lb/gal x 0.8 BTU/lb/F* x 60 min/hr x 10 F* = 19,920 - Say 20,000 BTU/hr at idle

Estimating the high side range is a little trickier, and a little more loose on the assumptions and estimates...but here it goes anyway. In race track conditions, coolant flow might be in the 40 to 70 gpm range. The Boss cooler has shown to be able to make a system overheat by say 15 to 20 degrees compared to a car (GT) without the Boss cooler. Roughly 235 vs 215 or 220. Solving for the low side of this model with a coolant delta T of 15* F:

20 gpm x 8.3 lb/gal x 0.8 BTU/lb/F* x 60 min/hr x 15 F* = 119,520 - Say 120,000 BTU/hr while overheating

Just a quick check on the order of magnitude for these figures...A 450 HP engine produces about 1.15M BTU/hr peak. About a third goes into the coolant or roughly 380,000 BTU/hr.

So our radiator might be worth less than 500,000 BTU/hr on a hot day or at high altitude and it's probably over 380,000 because it isn't overheating on a GT without the Boss cooler and because an engine that is overheating is usually doing so by a relatively small margin.

Checking the delta T of the oil at 120,000 BTU/hr (assuming oil is at full flow rating of the filter):

120,000 BTU/hr / (12 gpm x 6.8 lb/gal x 0.5 BTU/lb/F* x 60 min/hr) = 49.02* F

Checking the oil delta T of the idle model. Assuming 3 gpm oil flow:

20,000 BTU/hr / (3 gpm x 6.8 lb/gal x 0.5 BTU/lb/F* x 60 min/hr) = 32.68* F

Sounds plausible to me...but even if the over heating model is off by 50%, and the stock cooler is 'only' transferring up to 80,000 BTU/hr, then to run cooler than a car with the Boss cooler plus a 915 setrab, you might need an oil to air cooler capable of shedding about 110,000 to 120,000 BTU/hr. The other problem with going bigger with an oil to air cooler is that it will be progressively harder for the heated air to cool the coolant.

I guess we'll see once it gets hotter around the country.

 

[drano38]

Wow, way too much math there for my brain! But great info.

I'll install a cooler this summer, but will leave my stock oil/coolant cooler installed.
Any opinions on a good size for this? I'm thinking a Setrab 634--the 6 series for less oil pressure drop, and still getting 45-60,000 BTU. I track a couple weekends a year, and drive it on nice days to work. I'll also install an Improved Racing thermostat.

 

[Black Boss]

Ran at the track today with the stock water/oil cooler removed and the 34 row air/oil cooler. Ambient temps were in the mid 80's and a lot of the track is very high rpm.

Coolant peaked at 245 and oil at 295 (measured before the cooler). Removing the (opened up) 302S grille dropped water temps by 10+ degrees and oil by 5+ degrees. My conclusion I'd that removing the stock cooler helps a lot with coolant (I went into limp mode with the stock cooler in these condition previously). But for cars that run hot the 48 row cooler may be a better option. I have ordered, a 48 row that was on back order and it shipped today.

Will be running the same track in 8 days and will post updates........