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Well, time to take the engine out again!

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Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Jeez, whenever I read stuff like this it always seems like a wonder any of these engines survive idling, much less track days. Given the millions of Mustangs on the road that do fine, I don't actually wonder, but it always seems like such a fine line between roaring Pony or useless lump of metal.

Luckily, the useless lump of metal scenario is only for a small percentage. Until one has gone through and inspected new or freshly rebuilt engines would they see what a crapshoot they are. So much could go wrong with all the 'unproven' parts trying to work together. So many nooks and crannies that escape attention. At least things have generally gotten better over the years QC wise. And that's where understanding the tolerances helps not be on the side of failure early or otherwise.

One example...the video about balancing on the other page...I'm sure that guy's work is 'fine', but would anyone be 100% certain he didn't get some of those shavings in one of the oil passages? Or that any of his deburring got all of the potential flaking stuff?

Ask me sometime about a wasp head...stuck in the carburetor jet...of an airplane!
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
When we changed the timing chain etc the oil pump gear looked fine but we but in a Cobra jet unit anyways... But the Crank shaft gear sprocket was a mess with lots of bits of ground metal arround it..... We replaced it with a stock one and this time around we are putting in a Boundry forged sprocket.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
Main bearing arrived and of to measure them in a bit... Since my crew is of for vacations for two weeks I will be twiddling my thumbs for a bit... Can't seem to find the part number for the ARP 2000 conrod bolts that are mentioned in many websites.. Thought it would be a good idea not to use the originales?
 
When we changed the timing chain etc the oil pump gear looked fine but we but in a Cobra jet unit anyways... But the Crank shaft gear sprocket was a mess with lots of bits of ground metal arround it..... We replaced it with a stock one and this time around we are putting in a Boundry forged sprocket.
If you haven't purchased the crank gear yet, Ford has a forged steel one: M-6306-M50A, $23.50 + shipping from ANWBL.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Main bearing arrived and of to measure them in a bit... Since my crew is of for vacations for two weeks I will be twiddling my thumbs for a bit... Can't seem to find the part number for the ARP 2000 conrod bolts that are mentioned in many websites.. Thought it would be a good idea not to use the originales?
I don't think they're TTY and could be re-used. Probably better to replace if you have any concerns.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
upload_2019-2-17_15-28-38.jpeg
Well using this table so far rod bearing are ok at 0.0635mm.... I guess thats a Race tolerance jajao_O... going to the next size would leave it to tight.

getting the crank values in a bit. Fingers crossed.

Wasp Head in a airplane carb, that must have been fun!
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
View attachment 7007
Well using this table so far rod bearing are ok at 0.0635mm.... I guess thats a Race tolerance jajao_O... going to the next size would leave it to to tight.

Main bearings with the Clevite STD bearings came up with.... #5 was 0.060mm #4 was 0.051mm #3 was 0.038mm #2 was 0.040mm and #1 was 0.038mm

Will hone slightly (and carefully) to try to get 0.030mm accross the 5. Going up one size will be too tight for 1,2,3,

Got to see plastiguage at work last night.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
Sorry, bad explication on my part... What my builder wants to do is pass the upper half of the pillow block (the proper name escapes me at the moment!) Over glass. He says he passes it for 4 strokes then checks the tolerance. He estimated it would only be about 8 strokes to get it to close to the others.

He is going on vacation tomorrow so I have time to ponder.
 
6,401
8,294
Sorry, bad explication on my part... What my builder wants to do is pass the upper half of the pillow block (the proper name escapes me at the moment!) Over glass. He says he passes it for 4 strokes then checks the tolerance. He estimated it would only be about 8 strokes to get it to close to the others.

He is going on vacation tomorrow so I have time to ponder.

I like your builder already, the honing over glass is an old school way to take up clearances..I've done that myself on a few things
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
Yup I got lucky with the Builder..... As far as I know, Mine is one of the only Coyote rebuilds done in Chile... The "other" Builders would just through things together and hope for the best...... So far with pretty poor results.

Was a big step forward to befriend a family of engine builders with skills.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,244
4,233
Santiago, Chile
Just some ramblings... Learning all kinds of engine building tricks for the future.... When my builders finished seating the valves, they poured gas into the heads to see if any leaked out to the chamber after they appeared to be seated... two of them failed the test and had to hand seated twice more before the gas would not leak out. this was new to me, as was the long and tiring job of hand seating the valves.... Hours of lifting and shutting valves repeatedly till the compound was even all around, and then the gas test mentioned above.

New to me anyway, makes me wonder how the first engine my brother and I built some 40 years ago did not blow up!. Makes me want to build another engine Lol!
 

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