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dealer approves trans removal

bought my2012 Boss of a Ford lot 2 months ago with 22,000 kilometers(canadian eh?so thats around13,000 ?miles,close enuff)anyways-the 2-3rd shift issues,and did what we all do-MGW,1 piece ds,clutch line,fluids,pedal mods,and more-just came back from the dealer took the service tech for a run-shifted Just below 7500 ish,and he witnessed the lockout in 3rd,and even 4th .the clutch pedal DID NOT stay to the floor this time.they've agreed to pull the trans,knowing of all the mods(including all the suspension stuff).i've got the whiteline insert and CHE k-member,brace coming next week,but i'm pressing them to look at the clutch ie;weak pressure plate springs and slave.upon purchase they insisted track key was activated. days after it's home i tried the red key,no go.so i'm pressing for that as well.also i complained of a ticking sound when started up cold-warmed up a few minutes,it goes away-they showed me a Ford printout stating piston noise-But i'm thinking,these are forged pistons,not hypers.anyone have that cold start up tick for 2-3 minutes?anyways,i'm glad they will at least pull the tranny,hopefull for a new clutch.i've read early,like mine- Boss's had pressure plates,with made in Turkey stamped.they are aware of trans issues,seem like good guys. i'll give a a heads up in 2-3 weeks.wish me luck.
 
I have read a few people with the tick on cold starts. Mine also has it. I'm not too worried.
Good luck with the tranny.
 

Domestic Product

Big fat tires and everything !
OK, you have read through the whole transmission thread we have on hear? If not please do so lots of good info. Many have had the same issues you are having. Your transmission should be replaced or rebuilt , Ford knows this. Ford should have no problem installing a after market clutch and fly wheel that you supply once they have it apart. You just loose warranty on those parts. My experience with Ford was good. They rebuilt my trans and installed a after market clutch, flywheel, clutch line and shift kit. Once that was done out goes the clutch assist spring and all is well. Keep us posted.
 

johnrehder

New Boss 302 LS owner
When its really cold my LS ticks for a couple of seconds right after I leave the house. Just take it easy no high revs and its goes away. Normal I think.
 
thanks all for your input.it may take a few days to hear from the ford dealer.the service tech said this was their first boss in the shop., im thinking they will contact ford for an approval.I was plannig a road trip mid feb, down to monterey.that could be on hold, if it goes on too long. keepya posted.
 
boss742 said:
bought my2012 Boss of a Ford lot 2 months ago with 22,000 kilometers(canadian eh?so thats around17000 ?miles,close enuff)anyways-the 2-3rd shift issues,and did what we all do-MGW,1 piece ds,clutch line,fluids,pedal mods,and more-just came back from the dealer took the service tech for a run-shifted Just below 7500 ish,and he witnessed the lockout in 3rd,and even 4th .the clutch pedal DID NOT stay to the floor this time.they've agreed to pull the trans,knowing of all the mods(including all the suspension stuff).i've got the whiteline insert and CHE k-member,brace coming next week,but i'm pressing them to look at the clutch ie;weak pressure plate springs and slave.upon purchase they insisted track key was activated. days after it's home i tried the red key,no go.so i'm pressing for that as well.also i complained of a ticking sound when started up cold-warmed up a few minutes,it goes away-they showed me a Ford printout stating piston noise-But i'm thinking,these are forged pistons,not hypers.anyone have that cold start up tick for 2-3 minutes?anyways,i'm glad they will at least pull the tranny,hopefull for a new clutch.i've read early,like mine- Boss's had pressure plates,with made in Turkey stamped.they are aware of trans issues,seem like good guys. i'll give a a heads up in 2-3 weeks.wish me luck.
Well you're one of the first to be able to replicate a shift lock out with a tech in your car, congratulations and good luck. ;D

Ford knows there's an issue and the band-aid fixes you've added shouldn't matter to the dealer. And as you found out they didn't solve the problem either. IMO the clutch is the main problem and some, maybe many, of the transmission failures may have been caused due to forcing the trans into gear because of the clutch not fully disengaging. While Ford will replace your clutch it probably won't fix the problem permanently. Only a better quality clutch capable of handling higher RPM's will.
 
thanks nfsboss.I can see this going 2 ways, a clutch re&re, or a new (rebuilt) trans.if it goes clutch, l will pop for the whole deal.im also thinking the boss clutch is not hi rpm friendly.ive been advised to use a spec3 plus, citing decent engagement, low chatter, and can take abuse.I heard the rev limiter briefly, when I tried 3rd with the tech onboard.he didn, t notice it, but thats where, if demo'd.I think the m 82 is a good trans, just all the other poor parts overshadow,it.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I would recommend a McLeod over the spec. Mine is at the dealer right now because third gear is gone. I had a centerforce in mine. The dealer recommended I replace the clutch with a McLeod so that's what I did. I got my McLeod 687ish shipped from jegs. I am using the stock flywheel with mine.
 
update.service manager says trans will be apart and evalated by coming tuesday.they will replace all suspect parts, which is good news.he is fine with me supplying an aftermarket clutch.the mcleod rst and rxt are great pieces, a little pricey up here. our buck has hit a bigtime low.hi perf mega store-instal tuner shop says mcleod is #1, but they've been selling act fmhdss clutches with great feedback, for a chunk less $.anyone have that setup, please forward your opinions, I have just a few days to pull the trigger, on a (wife) budget and time frame , hope to get boss roll'n soon as we'll take it on a road trip to monterey very soon.thanks all that have responded .
 
boss742 said:
no, a single, with a billet steel flywheel
When I talked to McLeod they say it's the centrifugal force that is the problem. That's why they recommend a twin disc. I'm not 100% sure that's true but the way they explained it to me it made sense. Not saying a single won't work but I'd check into it carefully. Hopefully another member has had a good experience with the ACT they can share.

BTW the RST is a few hundred dollars cheaper than the RXT and should work fine.
 

Domestic Product

Big fat tires and everything !
NFSBOSS said:
When I talked to McLeod they say it's the centrifugal force that is the problem. That's why they recommend a twin disc. I'm not 100% sure that's true but the way they explained it to me it made sense. Not saying a single won't work but I'd check into it carefully. Hopefully another member has had a good experience with the ACT they can share.

BTW the RST is a few hundred dollars cheaper than the RXT and should work fine.

I have the RST and yes it works just fine. Zero issues. I do think you need to up grade the fly wheel at the same time. I went with the McLeod steel.
 
I am following this thread with interest, as Ford has continuously stonewalled me on the lockout issue. I am curious about a couple of comments contained in the thread. Justin, you have been a big fan of the Centerforce clutch, but you are recommending a McLeod. Have you become disenchanted with the Centerforce unit for some reason? Rick, you recommend the RST, but you have stated previously that you were unhappy with the RST's street drivability. Unless something has changed, neither Centerforce nor McLeod makes an upgraded slave cylinder for our assemblies, which I believe is a contributing factor to the lockouts. Only Exedy makes a clutch/clutch slave package available, but I have heard little about actual installs on our cars.

I seriously doubt Ford will make any effort to fix the design flaws in our clutch assemblies. They have, however, supposedly designed a new clutch for the 2015 model. As the new car will still use a Coyote V-8 and an MT-82, is there a chance it could be a solution to our issues?
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
athens7 said:
I am following this thread with interest, as Ford has continuously stonewalled me on the lockout issue. I am curious about a couple of comments contained in the thread. Justin, you have been a big fan of the Centerforce clutch, but you are recommending a McLeod. Have you become disenchanted with the Centerforce unit for some reason? Rick, you recommend the RST, but you have stated previously that you were unhappy with the RST's street drivability. Unless something has changed, neither Centerforce nor McLeod makes an upgraded slave cylinder for our assemblies, which I believe is a contributing factor to the lockouts. Only Exedy makes a clutch/clutch slave package available, but I have heard little about actual installs on our cars.

I seriously doubt Ford will make any effort to fix the design flaws in our clutch assemblies. They have, however, supposedly designed a new clutch for the 2015 model. As the new car will still use a Coyote V-8 and an MT-82, is there a chance it could be a solution to our issues?
I recommend the mcleod cause its cheaper. I have yet to drive a mustang with one. The only complant I have with the centerforce is the noise it makes when the clutch is pushed in. I was told by many that this isnt the norm with the DYAD. I bought the mcleod as its what the dealer that is repairing my transmission wanted me to buy. I sent along a new Throwout bearing and pilot bearing along with ARP hard ware for the flywheel and pressure plate. Forceofwill is going to be buying my centerforce set up. as its rebuildable both the flywheel and discs its a solid investment.

Rick's impression was of it when he first got it back it grabbed to hard but I am pretty sure that after it was broken in he really likes it now. He will more then likely have more to add.

As for the exedy throw out bearing I really like how they say it works with only their clutch and factory....well if it works with a factory clutch it is going to work with every other aftermarket clutch that uses a factory throw out bearing. but if you ask say american muscle directly about that they cover their A$$ and say it wont work with say a mcleod.
 
I talked with american muscle just about such issues getting their feedback on the best clutch, and related parts.he said the exedy slave looks identical to the ford unit, and is probably the same part.same comment up here from a performance shop.the ford piece is fine.Im still looking for reviews of the a c t fm13 hdss clutch.its available here, the rst (not the rxt) is 10 days away.
 
Justin said:
Rick's impression was of it when he first got it back it grabbed to hard but I am pretty sure that after it was broken in he really likes it now. He will more then likely have more to add.
Yes it sucked at first but has gotten a lot better. it's still not as easy to engage as the stock clutch and never will be. But it's livable. if I wasn't tracking my car I'd consider putting the stock clutch back in. I've only had shifting lock out on track and never on the street. So here's my take on this:

If I was going to do this again I'd buy the RST not the RXT and save a couple of hundred dollars, especially if you're not tracking your car and have stock or close to stock HP. If you're adding FI or tracking your car heavily I'd buy the RXT.

The RXT has a lighter pedal than the stock clutch. I believe this is typical of all twin discs clutches. This is important as Justin and others have reported removing the pedal assist spring not only makes the pedal heavier it also changes the feel and engagement with the stock clutch. With the RXT and spring removed the engagement is similar to stock with regards to how heavy it is and the feel.

I was having shifting lock out and the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. For me the fix for shifting lock out was replacing the clutch. This did not stop the pedal from sticking to the floor. The only fix for the pedal sticking is to remove the spring. Replacing the clutch line will not fix any clutch/trans problems. It's main purpose is to protect the line when using headers.

If your car has more than 10,000 miles and you have your clutch out change the TO/Slave as preventive maintenance.
 

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