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Clutch assist spring good or bad open thread

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TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,556
5,291
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
CaliMR said:
I just realized I never measured the width of the area to see if that duck bill will fit. I think it will, based on how wide mine was.

Regardless. I already have a nice bench grinder. It will fit.....eventually.

I was trying to figure out how to compress the spring before I return home and start next round of mods. In Afghanistan for another 10 days.

Now I have a good idea how to make this work. Should be a simple fix now.

What is the worst thing that can happen.......I have another new tool. How is that a bad thing??? ;)

Thanks Again. ;D
 
That video is not completely accurate, at least for mine. Watched it a few times and at first I thought they were using over-travel making it look like the spring was not completely bound at the top (after it snaps on lifting) but zoomed in it never actually binds. There is a little gap even when it is compressed completely at mid travel. Mine was actually binding, the rings touched each other, and stayed that way all the way from around the middle to the top. Maybe one of you guys can take a look at yours, if it has gaps between the rings like in the video or is fully compressed like mine was. My top pin (the video has it on a bench upside down) is also a different color. I wonder if a different spring was part of the change that they made in 2011? I heard they changed something to "fix" it but I am not sure what.

When my clutch would get stuck, it was right at the point of binding. But as I said, my spring completely binds rather than leaving a little gap between the coils. That is also right about at the engage point. So my clutch would come up until right at engagement then get stuck and the clutch would slip pretty back (stunk like heck) until I got my foot under to pull it up.


Also I don't know if it was clear how I wrote it, but you need to keep the pedal all the way down while clamping it to be able to knock the perch off.
 
PJWANNABE said:
So what is different about the 2011 GT500 clutch pedal assembly?
Supposedly it has more bracing and less flex. I haven't verified that personally. The theory is the stock assembly binds which leads to the pedal sticking.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
5 DOT 0 said:
PJWANNABE said:
So what is different about the 2011 GT500 clutch pedal assembly?
Supposedly it has more bracing and less flex. I haven't verified that personally. The theory is the stock assembly binds which leads to the pedal sticking.
I dont think that is the case. I think the pressure plate just isnt up to par for the higher rpms and cant overcome that assist spring at higher rpms coupled with a chocked down hydraulic line. I think all three weak areas are the cause.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
yeah there could be multiple cures to the problem. But I am sticking with the clutch being crap so I can justify buying the $1400+ centerforce DYAD set up to the GF lol.
 
5 DOT 0 said:
I agree but that's the theory of why guys are installing the GT500 assembly. It could be one of the many causes.

Also notice the gt500 clutch pedal all braced as the Boss is not at all? Hum if I find a gt500 clutch pedal cheap I am jumping on it for damn sure.
 
I got rear ended pretty bad today in my DD. When I talked to my insurance, they asked if my back hurt and I said yes, but I'm not sure if it was from the accident or because I was sitting upside down in my other car for 2 hours yesterday ;D
 
Yeah that is why I don't DD the Boss.

I've been talking to a friend with a V6 track pack Mustang, he said he has the 2ndary spring too. He has never had issues with the clutch staying down on the track, but he is going to try removing it to see how it feels. Apparently the Boss is not the only Mustang with a clutch that feels like a funhouse mirror.
 
Ok well here is a new view to this post
I am agreement with alot of you with the clutch on my boss and will be addressing it
On the flip side my father has a 2007 shelby and is getting older and would like his clutch to be like mine(easier to depress)
Will my 2013 pedal assembly go into his 2007 because i may just change the two out and fix two problems at once If it will work
His car has a 6k redline coupled with a stronger clutch and his lack of aggressive driving im guessing he will have no issues with it
Rich
 
TheJudge said:
Ok well here is a new view to this post
I am agreement with alot of you with the clutch on my boss and will be addressing it
On the flip side my father has a 2007 shelby and is getting older and would like his clutch to be like mine(easier to depress)
Will my 2013 pedal assembly go into his 2007 because i may just change the two out and fix two problems at once If it will work
His car has a 6k redline coupled with a stronger clutch and his lack of aggressive driving im guessing he will have no issues with it
Rich


That is a smart idea and should be great for that purpose.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,556
5,291
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
TMSBOSS said:
CaliMR said:
Justin said:
Awesome!!!! I will give this a try right away. did you leave the perches in place or remove them after?

The top perch falls off with the spring and the pin, the bottom one slides off to the side. Easy peasy. Just push the pedal down to expand the spring so the vice grips fits (many other tools would work too) then squeeze the two center coils together. Push down on the top coil and it falls out. The hardest part by far is figuring out how to get both arms down there, I had to push the seat all the way back and lean it as far back as I could then sit on the seat upside down. Getting your elbows in is what makes it difficult.


Home now and tried the vise grip method to remove the spring.

OMG. Simple!!

Took me ten minutes to bring the car in the shop, put on the knee pads and get ready for what I thought would be a chore. Nope

I depressed the pedal, clamped the spring with vise grip shown above, placed screw driver behind the upper pin and popped the entire assemble out. Total time once under the dash.....about one minute.

Thanks all for advice.

Clutch does fell a bit stiffer at the bottom of pedal travel. Not an issue.

I do like the feel of the pedal without the spring. :)
Amazon.com. $16.09. Shipped

Thanks for the tip! :)
 
Justin said:
batman48195 said:
Any downside to removing the spring? Will anything pop out or travel too far?

Thanks,
Brian
nothing like that just increased pedal effort

No not just increased pedal pressure it also increases the clutch spring pressure in certain areas by getting that nasty spring pressure off your clutch. It is all good and I will assume Ford will never do this again being it was such a misstake on their part just like the skip shift.
 

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