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Where's Wally

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Black Boss said:
Intended to use the service bolts:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=10732.0

Looks like there may not be enough adjustment. Will decide tomorrow whether to switch to the camber plates.
Thanks for figuring this out for us. I have the cc plates sitting in a box in the garage and have yet to order the bolts. It will be nice to know if I just go straight for the plates, the bolts or both.
 
1,940
2,048
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Michigan
cloud9 said:
Thanks for figuring this out for us. I have the cc plates sitting in a box in the garage and have yet to order the bolts. It will be nice to know if I just go straight for the plates, the bolts or both.

So after installing the Service Bolts and checking alignment several times ??? I concluded that Camber plates were the best option. Will post more details and a "How To" later:

IMG_2200_zpss5bju5mg.png
 
Black Boss said:
So after installing the Service Bolts and checking alignment several times ??? I concluded that Camber plates were the best option. Will post more details and a "How To" later:

IMG_2200_zpss5bju5mg.png
Well I'm glad I picked up a set on the Black Friday sale then. The next question is alignment specs. I'm just thinking we'll want more negative camber than what Ford specifies in the track supplement but maybe not. Any ide how much the race cars are running?
 
cloud9 said:
Well I'm glad I picked up a set on the Black Friday sale then. The next question is alignment specs. I'm just thinking we'll want more negative camber than what Ford specifies in the track supplement but maybe not. Any ide how much the race cars are running?
What Ford specifies in the manual is specific to the tires. You're gonna want more with the Hoosiers or slicks.
 
1,940
2,048
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Michigan
Wally's center console came out today to put in wiring for GPS, Coolshirt, plus switch and the AutoBlip control module:

IMG_2205_zpsqplapjlz.jpg

Purchased the GT Bezel to replace the blank R Bezel to mount the Coolshirt switch in the Line In Jack location and run AutoBlip and GPS cable thru the USB slot:

IMG_2212_zps2rcvykg5.jpg

Connecting the wire taps for AutoBlip was more difficult than the Boss, mainly due to the friction wrap on all the looms being extremely tight, even with the seat removed -- in hindsight it would take less effort to improve my heel and toe :eek:
 
1,940
2,048
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Michigan
VoodooBOSS said:
I didn't realize you were using an Auto Blip. How did you manage at the licensing school?

In the Boss I only used it on new tracks or those with several 5/4/3 downshifts -- figured it would also help with a new car as I'm getting lazy :eek:
 
1,940
2,048
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Michigan
Found out the hard way that the key fob sensor is in the top of the center consul. Had it removed and the car wouldn't start, although the other key fob functions (lock, un-lock etc.) still worked.....

All back together, so 3 more upgrades checked off the list:

Autoblip
Coolshirt
Powered GPS for Harry's
 
Sorry for the ignorant question, is the GPS for street traffic or does it also work around the track? Are you getting anymore info from the gps other then speed, directions, time and distance?
 
Black Boss said:
I use it in combination with Harry's lap timer on the track. It provides a higher GPS sample rate than the integral iPhone sensor. Lot's of other threads on Harry's -- easy to use and normally within 100's of a second of my AIM on the Boss.

Thank you Nick
 
1,940
2,048
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Michigan
Changed the Oil and Oil filter today in preparation for first track day.

Torque spec on the 350 (17 lb-ft) is way higher than the S197, probably to deal with the higher revs/vibration of the FPC.

Got a 74.5mm 14 spline socket to torque accurately -- way tighter than "hand tight":

IMG_2266_zpszfrbdqj7.jpg
 
Black Boss said:
Changed the Oil and Oil filter today in preparation for first track day.

Torque spec on the 350 (17 lb-ft) is way higher than the S197, probably to deal with the higher revs/vibration of the FPC.

Got a 74.5mm 14 spline socket to torque accurately -- way tighter than "hand tight":

IMG_2266_zpszfrbdqj7.jpg
Nice. Do you have a link to that socket? Is there room to actually use it? ::)
 

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