Winter Mods II

[cloud9]

Oooh, those are pretty Gary!

;D Thanks, I'm acited!


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[Sesshomurai]

;D Thanks, I'm acited!


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Verrrry niiiiiice. High fiiiive!

Nice headers man.

 

[Zquez]

I wonder if FRPP will make this rear mount battery kit available?

Its not necessarily a kit.... but the tray is already available under the cobra jet stuff. $60


http://rehagenracingproducts.com/2010-2013-COBRA-JET-BATTERY-TRAY-NHRA-Legal-M-010-CJ10.htm

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Its not necessarily a kit.... but the tray is already available under the cobra jet stuff. $60

It is Ford Racing PN M-010-CJ10, suggested retail price $75. I have not found a kit by Ford Racing for the cables. This is something I would love to do for the weight transfer.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12095

 

[steveespo]

I have posted on this before, here it is;




http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/48203/10002/-1?parentProductId= Taylor Aluminum box and 1Gauge cables from Jegs;
Then I bought a set of lead battery post that thread into side post batteries and this is how I did it.
Mounted the battery box in the right rear corner of the trunk with the 3/8" rods per the instructions, easier if you pull the right muffler so you can see hoew much to trim the rods and also tighten the nuts and washers, use the lock washer and a dab of locktite. in the trunk I laid out where I wanted the ground cable to go on the frame and drilled a hole slightly smaller than the a 3/8" sheet metal hex screw and then ground a little paint and primer off where the cable will make contact and secured it. The positive cable I routed from the box into the cabin following the main body harness, I also encased the cable with the corragated plastic wire wrap that you can get at home depot of radio shack to guard aganst any chafing of the insulation, critical as this is a live cable at all times. Next I run it along the rocker and under the carpet and passenger kick panel. At the firewall there is a large body grommet that goes to the space under the battery location; this is behind the fender shield so take off right front wheel and remove the splash shield. Stop here and remove the stock battery and box etc, there should just be the 2 cables and sheet metal. Under the tray there is a hole that you will use to pass the positive cable from the firewall through to marry to the stock positive cable. Push the new cable through the body grommet by making a small x cut in the rubber, add the correct size grommet and then pass the cable up through the hole under the battery tray location into the engine bay. At the grommets I added some wraps of electrical tape to again protect the cable insulation from chafing and also used some black RTV to seal around the grommets. Measure how much cable you need to reach the cars main positive cable and cut to length. Crimp on an eye ring terminal end and wrap it with electrical tape up to the bottom of the ring. I then too another positive lead terminal and using the correct nut and lock washer bolted the post to the new cable, then take the stock positive cable and clamp it on to your new positive cable post. As you can see we have not cut 1 stock piece on the car except for drilling a few holes and widening the grommet hole at the firewall. Leaving the red boot intact I used 3M scotch wrap electrical insulating pads and wrapped the whole connection to minimize any chance of shorting and secured the cables with zip ties to various parts of the engine compartment so the don't come in contact with anything.


For the stock negative cable I drilled a hole smaller than the thread on another negative lead post and screwed the post to the sheet metal in the battery tray area up front. Finally I bought a 16" flat braided ground strap and bolted one end to the closest bellhousing bolt and the other end to a sheet metal ground in the tray area with a 3/8" hex sheet metal screw.

Back in the trunk I then ran the vent hose from the box to an existing grommet plug that vents in the frame rail and hooked up the positive and then the negative cables to the battery. I am running an Optima Red Top AGM battery so venting is not really required but its good to do anyway, with a stock wet acid battery its required so fumes don't build up in the car. Before starting check all areas for any evidence of smoke from melting insulation or shorting. It's not likely but you never know. Button up the the splash shield and tire and all trims you took off to route the cables. In over a year and a half I have run this setup with zero issues, it can be put back to stock in an hour and no one would ever know what was done. Start her up and enjoy the transfer of 35 pounds from the front to the rear!
Steve

 

[cloud9]

I just weighed the Kooks LTs and they're 12 lbs each. Anyone know what the factory exhaust manifolds weigh? I'm waiting for some weather above zero before I'll get them installed.

 

[Sesshomurai]

I just weighed the Kooks LTs and they're 12 lbs each. Anyone know what the factory exhaust manifolds weigh? I'm waiting for some weather above zero before I'll get them installed.

They're cast iron and heavy as $hit. 25-30lbs each is my semi-educated guess.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Found some 1.5" BLACK chair tips at Ace...sound tube cap no longer white.

 

[cloud9]

Found some 1.5" BLACK chair tips at Ace...sound tube cap no longer white.

Woot! How ironic that I'd go for the chair parts. Go figure.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Woot! How ironic that I'd go for the chair parts. Go figure.

Now if you can find a place on your Boss to use some casters.

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Reduce engine flex to hopefully help with high RPM shifting. Actually the motor mounts are only nominally more work while they're installing the headers. Even by themselves it's a fairly quick job.

Nominal my A$$ ;D The vid says an hour and a half ..... day and half is more like it, that is what it took me. What a PITA I had to take apart many things, like the oil cooler tube, wiring etc. The Boss is very different from the older style S197 in that vid. Getting at the bracket bolts are very difficult and I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are very mechanically experienced. I ended up taking out a bolt on the passenger side I thought was a bracket bolt but was not, I also took off a header nut thinking it was on the bracket.

Take it to the mechanic and when he overcharges you for this, say thanks and give him a tip ;D

Anyway, great mod, wish I would have known about this sooner. I did not think my car would start after moving wires around for two days but it did, and not even a check engine light! Man what a difference you can feel as the starter is turning before the engine even fires, feels like the old 70 Boss now. You can feel the whole car flex now, it even pulls a little tiny bit to the side on the street when doing a hard shift. It also feel like I am putting more power to the wheels, I spun them every time not trying. I'm not saying it increases HP but this with my one piece driveshaft it really puts the power to the wheels.

I will not know for sure how it effects shifting until I get back on track. However driving on the street I think the best way to describe it is the shifting is more precise. I have gotten use to jamming my car into gear, manhandling the shifter because of all the problems I have had. The first thing I felt when driving was you can not do that, it needs a lighter touch and it slides into gear. Again I will not know for sure until I track it and shift at high RPM's.

Even if you don't track it is a cool mod, feels like a mini track key but shorter frequency vibration at idle.

 

[cloud9]

That's why I'm letting the mechanic install them when he pulls the motor to install the headers

Thanks for the writeup now I'm more anxious than ever to get them installed. Of course since it's only 3 degrees outside right now there's really no rush.

 

[JTRATX]

Nominal my A$$ ;D The vid says an hour and a half ..... day and half is more like it, that is what it took me. What a PITA I had to take apart many things, like the oil cooler tube, wiring etc. The Boss is very different from the older style S197 in that vid. Getting at the bracket bolts are very difficult and I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are very mechanically experienced. I ended up taking out a bolt on the passenger side I thought was a bracket bolt but was not, I also took off a header nut thinking it was on the bracket.

What mounts are they?

 

[cloud9]

What mounts are they?

Prothane and not sure why they only show 2005-2009 but they're 2005-2013.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/pmc-motor-mounts-0509.html?utm_content=pmc-motor-mounts-0509&utm_campaign=ShoppingFitmentV1&utm_source=Shopping_com&utm_medium=Shopping&AMID=pmc-motor-mounts-0509-2008-V6&year=2008&model=V6

 

[2012YellowBoss]

What mounts are they?

2005-09 Mustang Prothane Urethane Motor Mounts
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PT-6505BL/2005-09-Mustang-Urethane-Motor-Mounts

That's why I'm letting the mechanic install them when he pulls the motor to install the headers

That is best, as you know the

unless you are very mechanically experienced

part was a site general statement and not directed at you (Gary) ;D

 

[cloud9]

LOL who are you kidding I'm not pulling my motor.....I know my limitations

 

[2012YellowBoss]

LOL who are you kidding I'm not pulling my motor.....I know my limitations

I know many great drivers here that normally don't work on the car they drive, maybe that is why I suck at driving - guess I belong in the garage :-\

 

[Zquez]

Exactly the same thoughts I had after installing mine. I got the lethal performance ones which also allow you to lower the engine by 3/4".

 

[drano38]

That's why I'm letting the mechanic install them when he pulls the motor to install the headers

Thanks for the writeup now I'm more anxious than ever to get them installed. Of course since it's only 3 degrees outside right now there's really no rush.

Gary, its a heat wave for the next few days--better get those mods done!

 

[cloud9]

Gary, its a heat wave for the next few days--better get those mods done!

They called off school tomorrow it's going to be so far below zero. Just flashed in the tune for the LTs and H-pipe and was worried the PCM would "freeze" up ;D LTs and H-pipe going in next week when temps are expected above 32......barely.