Winter Mods II

[Justin]

That's not going to be possible via the ECU/ECM. You can check if there is a CEL specific fuse (doubt it). I'm also not sure if the ECU will automatically adjust to the LTH's but to get the extra HP gain from them, you will need a tune - which sadly, wipes out trackey forever.

it hasnt wiped it out forever for me. I have used aftermarket tunes went back to stock and the trackey gets loaded back on everytime.

The new ECU's use wide band sensors and will automatically adjust for the LTH's but you will have a CEL for the cats.

 

[Justin]

Nominal my A$$ ;D The vid says an hour and a half ..... day and half is more like it, that is what it took me. What a PITA I had to take apart many things, like the oil cooler tube, wiring etc. The Boss is very different from the older style S197 in that vid. Getting at the bracket bolts are very difficult and I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are very mechanically experienced. I ended up taking out a bolt on the passenger side I thought was a bracket bolt but was not, I also took off a header nut thinking it was on the bracket.

Take it to the mechanic and when he overcharges you for this, say thanks and give him a tip ;D

Anyway, great mod, wish I would have known about this sooner. I did not think my car would start after moving wires around for two days but it did, and not even a check engine light! Man what a difference you can feel as the starter is turning before the engine even fires, feels like the old 70 Boss now. You can feel the whole car flex now, it even pulls a little tiny bit to the side on the street when doing a hard shift. It also feel like I am putting more power to the wheels, I spun them every time not trying. I'm not saying it increases HP but this with my one piece driveshaft it really puts the power to the wheels.

I will not know for sure how it effects shifting until I get back on track. However driving on the street I think the best way to describe it is the shifting is more precise. I have gotten use to jamming my car into gear, manhandling the shifter because of all the problems I have had. The first thing I felt when driving was you can not do that, it needs a lighter touch and it slides into gear. Again I will not know for sure until I track it and shift at high RPM's.

Even if you don't track it is a cool mod, feels like a mini track key but shorter frequency vibration at idle.

man sorry to hear you had a hard time. They should really only take an hour and half. Three bolts per side.

How I did it was remove CAI. Remove the two nuts from the top with a long extension. Get under the car and jack the motor up with a block of wood and jack on the front of the bellhousing on the trans. Remove the two bolts per side holding the motor mount to the frame and pull them out. slip in the new ones and reverse the disassembly instructions.

It may have helped me as I have done a few sets of Long tube headers on these cars.

 

[Sesshomurai]

it hasnt wiped it out forever for me. I have used aftermarket tunes went back to stock and the trackey gets loaded back on everytime.

The new ECU's use wide band sensors and will automatically adjust for the LTH's but you will have a CEL for the cats.

Yeah, I should have been more clear by adding " - unless you revert all your mods back to stock and reload the stock tune." But as far as using trackey alongside a custom tune, I'm told this should not be done.

As for the AFR/LT's, my understanding from what my tuner said is that even though the ECU might adjust the AFR to accommodate the O2 sensors with the LT's automatically under normal load, he said that "to be sure" under WOT (and to obtain the best performance gains), a more complete tune is needed, But I'm sure all the tuners say that!

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

But I'm sure all the tuners say that!

 

[loco pantelonez]

man sorry to hear you had a hard time. They should really only take an hour and half. Three bolts per side.

How I did it was remove CAI. Remove the two nuts from the top with a long extension. Get under the car and jack the motor up with a block of wood and jack on the front of the bellhousing on the trans. Remove the two bolts per side holding the motor mount to the frame and pull them out. slip in the new ones and reverse the disassembly instructions.

It may have helped me as I have done a few sets of Long tube headers on these cars.

I just changed my mounts too. It took me a day and a half because I tried to take off the engine brackets. It was a nightmare to try to get the brackets off. If I were to do it again it would take two hours tops. The only thing I would add to Justin's way of changing the mounts is to get a dremel and cut the studs (it is pretty easy doing them one at a time) on the factory mounts after you lift the engine off the mount. I didn't have enough room to remove the factory mounts without cutting the studs.

If you are wondering what the studs look like here is a picture.

 

[cloud9]

I know many great drivers here that normally don't work on the car they drive, maybe that is why I suck at driving - guess I belong in the garage :-\

I wish I would have spent my younger days working on cars rather than managing rental units during college. I spent the day yesterday swapping every electrical, plumbing and hardware fixture in my mother-in-law's bathroom, then will turn around and drop my car at the dealer tomorrow for the headers :'(

 

[steveespo]

I just ordered the GT 500 15" Brembo 6 piston setup from Tousley today. Got the pads and hoses but probably won't use either if I can get the pad shape code from Hawk, Carbotech or Pagid and my Goodridge stainless lines fit.. The pads must exist, I think the number is 1867 and Audi used them on the RS6 and R8, just have to get the stockers and measure. It is also my unsderstanding that Grand Am Continental Challenge GS Mustang Boss 302R cars are using this set up under 2013 rules.
Tells me a couple things; they will make a difference on track and the calipers are not just bling. I plan on emailing Roush, and Rehagen to see what they are running for pads.

Plan on swapping brakes for different track configurations depending on brake usage, also will do some comparative testing using my Traqmate data logging. Bought a stock of 19" Ferrari Challenge Pirelli DH slicks in case I can't find 18" wheels that fit and are less than $550 each.

PS
Heard back from Dean Martin at Rehagen, the GS cars are using brembo full race 6 pots not the stocker GT500, guess they are close enough to allow them to upgrade. They also are carrying a weight penalty for using the 15" setup vs 4 piston 14". He is going to try and get me info on the pad shape so I can cross reference the major pad makers for track/race compounds. Pete does Pagid list anything for the 2013 GT 500 yet? Nick? The Bosch ABS is supposed to really help with the modulation on track. I will see how the car does with stock booster/ABS, don't really want to spend $10000 on brakes yet but wouldn't mind a $1200 improvement if you know what I mean. Will keep all updated.
Steve

 

[cloud9]

That sounds great Steve. I'm really looking forward to your feedback on this. I'm alread taxing the brakes, and adding another 40 hp isn't going to exactly help. I assume your reference to $1200 meant that's what it cost for the front 6-piston kit?

 

[VoodooBoss]

PS
Heard back from Dean Martin at Rehagen, the GS cars are using brembo full race 6 pots not the stocker GT500, guess they are close enough to allow them to upgrade. They also are carrying a weight penalty for using the 15" setup vs 4 piston 14". He is going to try and get me info on the pad shape so I can cross reference the major pad makers for track/race compounds. Pete does Pagid list anything for the 2013 GT 500 yet? Nick? The Bosch ABS is supposed to really help with the modulation on track. I will see how the car does with stock booster/ABS, don't really want to spend $10000 on brakes yet but wouldn't mind a $1200 improvement if you know what I mean. Will keep all updated.
Steve

I'm pretty sure the race calipers hold thicker pads. Regardless I hope they are an improvement over the stock four piston calipers and that Enkei PF01's fit over the six piston calipers.

 

[Sesshomurai]

I just ordered the GT 500 15" Brembo 6 piston setup from Tousley today. Got the pads and hoses but probably won't use either if I can get the pad shape code from Hawk, Carbotech or Pagid and my Goodridge stainless lines fit.. The pads must exist, I think the number is 1867 and Audi used them on the RS6 and R8, just have to get the stockers and measure. It is also my unsderstanding that Grand Am Continental Challenge GS Mustang Boss 302R cars are using this set up under 2013 rules.
Tells me a couple things; they will make a difference on track and the calipers are not just bling. I plan on emailing Roush, and Rehagen to see what they are running for pads.

Plan on swapping brakes for different track configurations depending on brake usage, also will do some comparative testing using my Traqmate data logging. Bought a stock of 19" Ferrari Challenge Pirelli DH slicks in case I can't find 18" wheels that fit and are less than $550 each.

PS
Heard back from Dean Martin at Rehagen, the GS cars are using brembo full race 6 pots not the stocker GT500, guess they are close enough to allow them to upgrade. They also are carrying a weight penalty for using the 15" setup vs 4 piston 14". He is going to try and get me info on the pad shape so I can cross reference the major pad makers for track/race compounds. Pete does Pagid list anything for the 2013 GT 500 yet? Nick? The Bosch ABS is supposed to really help with the modulation on track. I will see how the car does with stock booster/ABS, don't really want to spend $10000 on brakes yet but wouldn't mind a $1200 improvement if you know what I mean. Will keep all updated.
Steve

Cool. Can't wait to hear how you like them. I sent an email to Rousch inquiring more about the brakes.
Unfortunately, for American Iron I can only use max 14" rotors, but I'm still deciding which brake kit (calipers et. al.) to get and will probably drop the coin on the 302R brake booster and ABS (not bosch) before competing.

And I almost hate to ask Steve, but what wheel are you wedging that BBK behind? I know this was discussed ad nauseum in another thread...

 

[steveespo]

Right now I plan to use the 19"x9" FRPP Boss 302S wheel with Pirelli 255-650/19 DH Ferrari Challenge slicks. I am going to try both the 18"x9" AMR and SVE wheels that I have to check if either or both work. I will also try the Enkei PF01 wheel if Pete lets me try his at Lime Rock this spring. The calipers, rotors, stock hoses, hardware clips and pads cost $1255 from Tousley Ford, I ordered everything so I would be able to get it up and running. If the Goodridge hoses work I will return, same for the pads if I can find some race pads that fit.
Steve

 

[VoodooBoss]

That seems very reasonable. Are the rotors two piece?

 

[2012YellowBoss]

I just changed my mounts too. It took me a day and a half because I tried to take off the engine brackets. It was a nightmare to try to get the brackets off. If I were to do it again it would take two hours tops. The only thing I would add to Justin's way of changing the mounts is to get a dremel and cut the studs (it is pretty easy doing them one at a time) on the factory mounts after you lift the engine off the mount. I didn't have enough room to remove the factory mounts without cutting the studs.

I tried cutting them but every tool I had was to big to get in there. I had an air cut off wheel that I was able to get into the drivers side but only cut off about 5/8 of an inch and that still was not enough. I had to take off the guard and one slip it would cut into the headers or the sheet metal on the other side so it was slow going.

I lifted the engine as high as it would go including taking off the cross brace. If anyone can do this in two hours taking these out with just lifting the motor more power to them, they are better then me.

 

[steveespo]

Solid rotors. I can get custom rings from Coleman made for my DBA hats in 15".
Steve

 

[VoodooBoss]

Solid rotors. I can get custom rings made for my DBA hats in 15".
Steve

Was this the FRPP kit?

 

[steveespo]

Was this the FRPP kit?

Rick
Stock parts, here is the list with retail prices
1. DR3Z1125A
ROTOR ASY Price: $343.54
2. DR3Z2B164A
CLIP Price: $46.96
3. DR3Z2B120A
CALIPER ASY - BRAKE - LESS PAD Price: $468.47
4. DR3Z2B121A
CALIPER ASY - BRAKE - LESS PAD Price: $468.47
5. DR3Z2001B
KIT - BRAKE LINING Price: $315.70
I think the FRPP kit may be the race brakes and therefore more $$$$, we'll see when they release it.

Steve

 

[2012YellowBoss]

Tells me a couple things; they will make a difference on track and the calipers are not just bling.

Can't imagine they would not help especially going deep into a high speed brake zone. Sometimes I think this car is at it's limit even if the fronts are 14 inch, scares me when the back end is wagging. Sounds like the Roush team was pretty happy with the change and the Mustangs were running fast this year. During the race Roush ran a 157.1 and Dean ran a 157.6, in practice the 61 ran a 156.3 and the 51 a 156.8. I am not sure but they may have been the only teams with the upgraded brakes.

Heard back from Dean Martin at Rehagen, the GS cars are using brembo full race 6 pots not the stocker GT500, guess they are close enough to allow them to upgrade. They also are carrying a weight penalty for using the 15" setup vs 4 piston 14". He is going to try and get me info on the pad shape so I can cross reference the major pad makers for track/race compounds.

Were they still on a PFC 01 compound, I believe that is what they use last year?

Plan on swapping brakes for different track configurations depending on brake usage, also will do some comparative testing using my Traqmate data logging. Bought a stock of 19" Ferrari Challenge Pirelli DH slicks in case I can't find 18" wheels that fit and are less than $550 each.

Awaiting your results on the pads and rims. $1200 is not too bad but if I have to swap out eight track rims it starts to get silly.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Rick
Stock parts, here is the list with retail prices
1. DR3Z1125A
ROTOR ASY Price: $343.54
2. DR3Z2B164A
CLIP Price: $46.96
3. DR3Z2B120A
CALIPER ASY - BRAKE - LESS PAD Price: $468.47
4. DR3Z2B121A
CALIPER ASY - BRAKE - LESS PAD Price: $468.47
5. DR3Z2001B
KIT - BRAKE LINING Price: $315.70
I think the FRPP kit may be the race brakes and therefore more $$$$, we'll see when they release it.

Steve

Thanks Steve. I believe the kit, or at least the photos I've seen, comes with a two piece rotor kit which would keep me out of it. If these calipers are an improvement I may go this route especially if the Enkei PF01's fit. Thanks for blazing the trail on this one.

Also have you checked into the larger rear rotors and caliper mounting bracket?

 

[steveespo]

Rick
I have been using the Baer Eradispeed +2 14" rear brake kit since my car was new, same setup that was on the 2009 Shelby SuperSnake. They wok well and weigh exactly the same as the puny stock rotors. $525 for the 2 two piece rotors and offset bracket.
Steve

 

[VoodooBoss]

Rick
I have been using the Baer Eradispeed +2 14" rear brake kit since my car was new, same setup that was on the 2009 Shelby SuperSnake. They wok well and weigh exactly the same as the puny stock rotors. $525 for the 2 two piece rotors and offset bracket.
Steve

Nice. My friend has those front and rear on his Boss and they work well. I'm trying to stay away from two piece rotors and if I buy the six piston fronts I'll do the GT500 rears as well.