Where's Wally

[Black Boss]

Nice, if you install the CC plates can you please measure the height of the spring and take photos and post the part number? I'm thinking of installing the R front springs and that would be helpful. I'm also hoping Gary does this first.

Will do, but will likely get some of the other mods done first -- want to find service documentation for torque values, etc, plus I want to run stock camber for the first 1,000 bed in miles...

Nice Ford Performance Manual cover:



Now I just need to find a Ford Performance License plate surround.

 

[cloud9]

+1 on the license plate surround. Did you catch the secret documentation tray inside the glove box? Nice feature.

 

[Black Boss]

can you please measure the height of the spring and take photos and post the part number?

Just pulled the front wheels to weigh them. R front spring part number is: FR3V-5310-RB -- same L & RHS.

18" CCW wheels do not clear the front brakes. Forgestar 19" (which I use with PSS in the wet on the Boss) do fit, although I'd need open ended lug nuts, given the length of the R studs.

I'll post up photos and dimensions when I get back from the shop.

 

[REAL 1]

Neat stuff. Most amazing is a rear you can actually adjust camber on!!!!

Definitely a step forward.

 

[Black Boss]

Checked out some more wheel dimensions today for Front brake clearance:

• The Carbon R wheels have a Barrel diameter of 18 5/8" on the inside of the wheel, narrowing to about 18 1/8" at the hub face.
• My 18" CCW's have a Barrel diameter of approx. 17 3/4", pretty much constant to the hub face
• My 19" Forgestars have a Barrel diameter of approx. 18 3/8", also pretty much constant to the hub face

The CCW's don't fit. The Forgestars do:


Interestingly both the 9" (+35ET) and 10" (+42 ET) fit -- the 10" need about a 9-13mm spacer to get the same front track as the Stock wheels:


Two watch outs on the Forgestars: The R front and rear studs protrude too far for the stock nuts -- you'd need open ended nuts. The stock nuts are also just too large (1-2mm) of an outside diameter to torque down into the wheel recesses.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Great info, keep it coming. For fun did you weigh your Forgestars and R CF wheels? Gary is dying to know...

 

[Black Boss]

Great info, keep it coming. For fun did you weigh your Forgestars and R CF wheels? Gary is dying to know...

Here's a photo of the rear wheel/tire, you can see that the 315's poke a fair bit outside the fender, but are also stretched which will help with fender clearance:



Now the weight data. Gary measured his Wheel/Tire combo as 62 lbs I believe, don't know whether that was Front or Rear.

R Front Wheels/Tires are 46 lbs, Rears are 47 lbs
18" CCW with 10.5" wide front, 11" Wide rear and 285/305 Hoos R7's are 49 lbs Front, 50 lbs Rear
19" Forgestar with 9" Front, 10" Rear and PSS 265/35 + 295/30 are 51 lbs Front and 53 lbs Rear

Some observations:

• According to Tire Rack the PSS GT350 Tires are 2 lbs heavier than each of the R tires, so the wheel weight delta is approx 13-14 lbs
• 19" Hoos R7's are about the same weight as Pilot Sport Cup 2's. The 19" R7's are on average 1 lb heavier than the 18's, so the R Carbon wheels are about 4 lbs lighter than the CCW's, and 1" larger in diameter and 1/2" wider

 

[cloud9]

The wheel/tire I weighed was a rear and you are correct at 62 lbs.

 

[Black Boss]

Spent the day on the first Mod -- Mike's jacking plates. Like the Boss version they are really well made and come with excellent instructions.

However, the pinch welds on the GT350/S550 are WAY harder steel than on the Boss/S197. I spent 3 hours drilling 2 5/16" holes to install 1 plate, and destroyed several Dewalt Cobalt drill bits. This steel is way more difficult to drill than even the HSS rear bumper beam in the Boss (that I drilled to install the Master Kill Switch for Steve's Battery relocation kit).

I believe that the steel specs for many structural parts have changed -- Patrick at Watson mentioned they changed their Roll Bar Design, because they didn't believe most installers would be able to drill the Gusset Plate/Crossmember which is hardened steel. There's a similar comment from Cooltech on another forum re their Roll Bar design.

This will make installing eyebolts through the floorpan for Sub-Belt mounts challenging. Am starting to think of other options...... Also need to go buy some more drill bits to install the second Jacking plate......

 

[cloud9]

Spent the day on the first Mod -- Mike's jacking plates. Like the Boss version they are really well made and come with excellent instructions.

However, the pinch welds on the GT350/S550 are WAY harder steel than on the Boss/S197. I spent 3 hours drilling 2 5/16" holes to install 1 plate, and destroyed several Dewalt Cobalt drill bits. This steel is way more difficult to drill than even the HSS rear bumper beam in the Boss (that I drilled to install the Master Kill Switch for Steve's Battery relocation kit).

I believe that the steel specs for many structural parts have changed -- Patrick at Watson mentioned they changed their Roll Bar Design, because they didn't believe most installers would be able to drill the Gusset Plate/Crossmember which is hardened steel. There's a similar comment from Cooltech on another forum re their Roll Bar design.

This will make installing eyebolts through the floorpan for Sub-Belt mounts challenging. Am starting to think of other options...... Also need to go buy some more drill bits to install the second Jacking plate......

I will have to check with my mechanic to see what bits he used. It was challenging, but only broke 3 bits doing both plates At least we shouldn't have to worry about using jack stands bending anything at the front and rear of the pinch weld. Do you think the floor pan will be as thick as the double walled pinch weld?

 

[Black Boss]

I will have to check with my mechanic to see what bits he used. It was challenging, but only broke 3 bits doing both plates At least we shouldn't have to worry about using jack stands bending anything at the front and rear of the pinch weld. Do you think the floor pan will be as thick as the double walled pinch weld?

No, with luck (depending on lateral location) it will only be a single wall , however it will require a 7/16" hole ......the pinch welds were only 5/16".

 

[steveespo]

This steel also requires special welding techniques so be sure a fab shop welder knows the procedures and has the correct equipment and filler rod if installing a cage.

 

[fuhrius]

I believe that the steel specs for many structural parts have changed -- Patrick at Watson mentioned they changed their Roll Bar Design, because they didn't believe most installers would be able to drill the Gusset Plate/Crossmember which is hardened steel. There's a similar comment from Cooltech on another forum re their Roll Bar design.

is that good news for folks who are going to do a weld-in cage? that's my current plan.

 

[Black Boss]

is that good news for folks who are going to do a weld-in cage? that's my current plan.

Not sure. Steve's post just said fabricators needed to be aware. I am going to Watson in a couple of weeks and will check with them.....

Meanwhile, Wally's gone into temporary hibernation. The cover really emphasizes the height of the R rear wing:

 

[cloud9]

Looking forward to you getting it into Watson. I'm guessing that's why my roll bar hasn't shipped yet

 

[Grant 302]

I like front camber for extending tire wear as much as the added grip. I will probably go with something closer to the R spec of -1.75* (maybe -1.70*) and see how it goes. If I'm wearing inside tire edges faster than the rest of the tire I will go back to -1.5* Interesting that it's at least 1* less negative than we ran the S197s. I assume it's due to the double ball joint front strut design?

Exactly. The virtual pivot point where the lower arms would intersect allows for a lot more camber gain under compression.

 

[GProcac571]

That is one heck of a garage! Super jealous of that for sure. Great looking car cover, which actually looks worth the option price vice the Boss one we paid 475 for when it was an option on the build sheet back then. That black is so hard to keep clean, that's why I went with magnetic with the same stripe option. Soliciting ideas of how to protect these wheels. I want to run with them, as the suspension is specifically tuned for them as well as they are as light as about anything on the market.

 

[fuhrius]

Not sure. Steve's post just said fabricators needed to be aware. I am going to Watson in a couple of weeks and will check with them.....

Meanwhile, Wally's gone into temporary hibernation. The cover really emphasizes the height of the R rear wing:

that cover looks nice.

 

[Black Boss]

That black is so hard to keep clean, that's why I went with magnetic with the same stripe option. Soliciting ideas of how to protect these wheels. I want to run with them, as the suspension is specifically tuned for them as well as they are as light as about anything on the market.

Yea, Black's tough, but at least the track tire marks don't show as bad . Very nearly went with Magnetic for that reason.

Not sure there's any waiy to protect the wheels, other than careful handling and tie down if you're trailing. The reality is track wheels are going to get messed up with wheel and tire changes. In spite of that I plan on tracking with them, at least for a few shake down runs and a couple of tire changes........

 

[REAL 1]

Are replacement CF wheels available? Cost?