Whiteline Transmission Bushing Insert

[VoodooBoss]

jesus the NVH.

Drove it around today with the bushing in, this is definitely a track day only part, at least on my car. introduces a lot of vibration into the cabin, and noise. shifter doesn't shake around a lot, but I already have a barton bracket and steeda shifter.

Going to pull it out for my sanity and just install it on track days. It does help firm the setup up.

And what about the shifting, any improvement? We're you having shifting issues before?

 

[Boss949]

Had mine installed tonight.

I already have NVH from other mods, so this is not big deal for me. With the Roush A/B's and Cat Delete's I couldn't really hear the NVH anyway. I just took the Roush off because of backfiring on decel and will replace the OEM A/B's soon.

Results? I was able to do 3 different sets of High Rev 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4.

Prior to the Whitelline, we installed a CHE K member brace with v8 torque limiters and that really helped the high load shifting.

Tonight after the Bushing Insert, I could tell that the shifts were even smoother. Hard to really quantify; it just felt better. Noticeable also was the downshifting improvement.

For me the quantifiable results will be Friday night for Test and Tune at North Star Drag Strip. I'll try to post after I do some on track testing.

 

[dabossinnne]

Had my Boss out a little bit today. Still not able to really romp on it, but just driving around town and a brief on ramp/moderate acceleration run, the shifting is definitely firmer feeling. And re: NVH, there's noticeably more "V" through the shifter, though not objectionable. Will have to wait for my next HPDE in Sep to really assess its effectiveness, however.

 

[captdistraction]

And what about the shifting, any improvement? We're you having shifting issues before?

I was, once the barton bracket was on, I'd have a hard time with a few gates. This definitely crisps up shifting even further, and I will keep it for a track day prep (right next to my MM PHB NVH generator).

To put in perspective, my car has no cats, runs 1/2" plate restrictors, and the only two rubber bushings in the suspension are found in the UCA and axle mount. There's no engine covers, there's a tiger hood, and I run a Mcleod RXT clutch. There's plenty of NVH in this car, just the bushing pushed it over the top for me.

I haven't driven it since I removed the bushing, so we'll see what the end result is here in a few when I run out. There's always the possibility the NVH came from another source, I did just have 90% of the front of this car apart to install a rack, wheel bearings, brakes, etc.

 

[captdistraction]

It was the bushing. Removed and everything is back to normal. I'm not sure this would be a problem for all cars, but I thought this issue might crop up as other cars tend to get a bit NVH grouchy if you firm the transmount without firming the motor mounts as well.

It will be fine for track days, its such a quick and easy install I'll just include it as part of the car setup for the day.

 

[Justin]

It was the bushing. Removed and everything is back to normal. I'm not sure this would be a problem for all cars, but I thought this issue might crop up as other cars tend to get a bit NVH grouchy if you firm the transmount without firming the motor mounts as well.

It will be fine for track days, its such a quick and easy install I'll just include it as part of the car setup for the day.

is removal of the cross member required or can you just take the weight off of the cross member and slide it in?

 

[captdistraction]

is removal of the cross member required or can you just take the weight off of the cross member and slide it in?

Cross member definitely has to drop. It took me 3 minutes to remove it, including jacking up the car. a Cordless impact will do the job at the track, I used a air impact and a 15mm/18mm to speed things up, but its simple and fast with hand tools. To press the bushing in, I used a quick-grip clamp, and to remove I just used a flat head screwdriver.

 

[JScheier]

Seriously, it took me longer to put the car up on jack stands than anything else:

1. Jack the car up and safely support it 'evenly' (that means all 4 corners) on jack stands
2. You'll need an 18mm and a 15mm socket
3. Place a jack under the transmission and jack it up to remove weight
4. remove four 18mm bolts on the outer edge of the cross brace
5. remove two 15mm nuts in the center of the brace (attaches bushing/tranny to brace)
6. don't get hit in the head with the aluminum brace :
7. lube up the bushing and push it into the OEM bushing from the front (it only fits one way... wear disposable gloves!)
8. Put the cross brace back in place and insert the four 18mm bolts (do not tighten)
9. Put the two 15mm nuts back on the two bolts
10. Tighten the four outer 18mm bolts (46ftlb is what the FR500 specs say)
11. Tighten the two 15 mm nuts (52 ftlb is what the FR500 specs say)
12. Put the car back on the ground.

 

[Justin]

I just got mine about two hours ago. If you use car ramps it takes like 10 mins.

Still think its the best 50 bucks I have spent buying those rhino ramps.

Going to test drive it later perhaps tomorrow.

 

[JScheier]

Just went and drove the car. A little bit more V (out of the NVH equation), but nothing bad at all. Completely livable. Shifts are much better now, even at 7500 rpm. Very cheap, effective modification.

 

[captdistraction]

So this seems to be hit or miss with some cars, I just talked to the guys at JDM, and they sent me this:

Here are two pictures of what the final piece should look like. Pretty simple solution…

I cannot guarantee that it will be as effective as the original version, but I know it will cut down the NVH dramatically. My car still shifts better.

Please let me know your results and please be careful cutting this part. A band saw will be best and a razor to clean up the remainder.

-Nick

I'm considering trying this, as at least on my car, the bushing piece that is removed was definitely wedged in tight on my car, and if I wanted to use that section that I'd cut out, I don't see how it could come out on its own, even if not being retained by the backing. If this took out 75% of the NVH (again shaking/vibration so bad you'd feel it in the base of the seat and steering wheel) then I'd be happy. It has something to do with clearances on certain cars from my understanding.

 

[Justin]

So this seems to be hit or miss with some cars, I just talked to the guys at JDM, and they sent me this:

I'm considering trying this, as at least on my car, the bushing piece that is removed was definitely wedged in tight on my car, and if I wanted to use that section that I'd cut out, I don't see how it could come out on its own, even if not being retained by the backing. If this took out 75% of the NVH (again shaking/vibration so bad you'd feel it in the base of the seat and steering wheel) then I'd be happy. It has something to do with clearances on certain cars from my understanding.

hmm mine was really tight to get in had to use a big pair of channel locks. if mine ends up being like yours I will try this mod out for sure

 

[Boss949]

Update:

Went to North Star Dragway for Test and Tune 1/8.

First of all my times were horrible 8.36 (1.9291 60). So, we won't discuss that. (Driver) 98* etc...

Now for the good news:

First time I've had a chance to really test the car under heavy loads, with new Mods

Whiteline Tranny Bushing was installed on 8/30
CHE K Member V8 Torque limiters installed on 8/20

The shifting was excellent. Not an issue at all and didn't have the feeling that I had to fight 1-2.

My opinion is that the combo of both mods really changed the performance of the Tranny. Obviously for the $$ I believe the Whiteline Bushing is certainly worth the effort for anyone using the Boss for high rev shifting.

NVH? Doesn't sound like it did off the showroom floor. But I'm looking for better performance, so it doesn't bother me.

 

[Justin]

Just got back from a drive. The vibration is pretty noticeable indeed. I can feel it in the steering wheel and floor...basically everywhere. after a few miles I didnt notice it so much. The car rocks even more when it lopes at idle lol. Made the shifter feel just a hair more solid and firmer shifts. not sure if its worth the trade off just yet. Going to give it a week or so till I figure out if I want to modify it like was posted earlier.

 

[tlflow]

pretty loud, but improves shifting noticeably

 

[Black Boss]

Put this in yesterday. Had already installed the MGW shifter. Ran at the track today and shifting is more precise, with no significant increase in NVH. Great investment!

 

[loco pantelonez]

I just got mine and installed it this morning. First impressions are good, there is a noticeable increase in noise and vibration enough so that coins in my center console were rattling that didn't before. The increase in noise and vibration is definitely worth the much better shifter feel as well as the ability to get into gear smoothly.

Edit: Clarification

 

[Justin]

So this seems to be hit or miss with some cars, I just talked to the guys at JDM, and they sent me this:

I'm considering trying this, as at least on my car, the bushing piece that is removed was definitely wedged in tight on my car, and if I wanted to use that section that I'd cut out, I don't see how it could come out on its own, even if not being retained by the backing. If this took out 75% of the NVH (again shaking/vibration so bad you'd feel it in the base of the seat and steering wheel) then I'd be happy. It has something to do with clearances on certain cars from my understanding.

I did this mod to mine and it made it much better. just a slight vibration now.

 

[kona768]

When its cut can you put it in without dropping the crossmember?

 

[Justin]

When its cut can you put it in without dropping the crossmember?

hmm good question ill have to check